Installing motor mount inserts??

[Ripper323]

I recently purchased a set of RR Racing motor mount inserts, front and rear for the BJ(thanks Melbastina!!) and I'm pretty sure it's an easy job to do, but before I start taking engine mount bolts out does anyone have any tips or tricks to installing them?
Thanks, Ripper.

[chicaboo]

Alan,

Front: Take off your intake plumbing/airbox or whatever gets in your way, then undo the sideways bolt first with a 1/2" drive breaker bar, after that it's pretty easy doing the 2 from underneith without even jacking up the car. Careful not to overtighten when doing up the sideways bolt, otherwise you damage the bolt stop on the mount bracket.

Rear: This is not easy, but I've done it 4 or 5 times still. I use a 300mm breaker bar with a 1/2" pivot drive to a 250mm extender to a universal ball joint to a long neck 14mm and 17mm socket. Now you take off your strut brace and undo the 2 bolts holding the brake line distribution block to the firewall. The front bolt you should be able to reach by just feeding all that down behind the intake manifold. The rear two bolts you will need to feed in from behind the brake lines. Now you will need to climb under the car to do the sideways bolt, I can't really advise you here very much, I guess I just tend to trap a 3/8" drive against the gearbox side so my hands are free to get to the bolt on the engine side of the mount...

You're gonna lose some skin off your knuckles, but it grows back.

Cheers,
Gav.

[LordWorm]

you seem to know what you're doing chicaboost...you wanna do my rear mount
hahahaha

[chicaboo]

Actually, I'm likely the only person in Oz to have done a rear engine mount on an SP20 with home tools and without removing anything bar the strutbrace to get to it! Andy had to take stuff off to do his.

Anyhow, you rounded the $#!T out of your nut apparently, so it's not exactly straight forward after that. Oh, the SP20 sucks doodles to change engine mounts on due to the fact the engine sits further back and towards the drivers side by 10mm or so each way...

Gav.

[LordWorm]

its not rounded, its been re-demeled into something appraoching the shape of a bolt...only, its about 4mm now :P
teehee

[chicaboo]

If YOU buy a long neck 1/2" drive socket to fit the new bolt size I can have a crack at it.

[Ripper323]

JESUS!! Sounds complicated. I might take the car to the workshop at work and drive it up on the ramps so I can stand under the car and survey the situation better. I'll let everyone know how it goes when I've done it!!!

[LordWorm]

Originally Posted by Ripper323

JESUS!! Sounds complicated. I might take the car to the workshop at work and drive it up on the ramps so I can stand under the car and survey the situation better. I'll let everyone know how it goes when I've done it!!!

Ring up mazda and get a quote dude...if you have the mounts it might be a couple of hundred for them to install them, and from the hours of screwing around i've already had, i wish i had of spent that money..heh

[Ripper323]

Originally Posted by LordWorm

Ring up mazda and get a quote dude...if you have the mounts it might be a couple of hundred for them to install them, and from the hours of screwing around i've already had, i wish i had of spent that money..heh

F*** that, I'd rather have skinned knuckles and swear more than a sailor (oh wait a minute, I am a sailor!) than pay them a couple of hundred dollars to do it. I hate paying people to do work on my car.

[twilightprotege]

i didnt have to take everything off to do the rear mount change, i just happened to have my IM and head off, so i took the opportunity to do it then so

[Ripper323]

In your description Gav, you are actually talking about taking the whole mount off? I was thinking along the lines of taking the bolts out of the middle of both mounts, tilting the engine, and putting the inserts in, then letting the engine come back to normal spot. Same for the back one as well. Is my theory too flawed??

[chipa]

The front is dead simple and you shouldn't need help, but the rear is a pain as Gav said. Mazda only charged me $100 to swap my rear AWR in, which is damn cheap considering the hassle.

[chicaboo]

Originally Posted by Ripper323

In your description Gav, you are actually talking about taking the whole mount off? I was thinking along the lines of taking the bolts out of the middle of both mounts, tilting the engine, and putting the inserts in, then letting the engine come back to normal spot. Same for the back one as well. Is my theory too flawed??

There won't be any tilting of the engine, you must take the mount out to put the insert in! I forgot to mention that when you do your rear mount you may like to support the back of the engine or gearbox with a jack. Getting that sideways bolt on the rear mount to line up again will be murder...

[chipa]

And you'll kick yourself for not paying someone to do it many many times. I gave up halfway through and said stuff this, put it back together and gave it to Mazda

[LordWorm]

Originally Posted by chipa

And you'll kick yourself for not paying someone to do it many many times. I gave up halfway through and said stuff this, put it back together and gave it to Mazda

how you reckon they'll handle a chewed up number 3 bolt?
:P

[Cosmo Dude]

Originally Posted by LordWorm

how you reckon they'll handle a chewed up number 3 bolt?
:P

Grind it off, punch it out and bill you for the replacement.

[Ripper323]

Originally Posted by chicaboo

Actually, I'm likely the only person in Oz to have done a rear engine mount on an SP20 with home tools and without removing anything bar the strutbrace to get to it! Andy had to take stuff off to do his.

Anyhow, you rounded the $#!T out of your nut apparently, so it's not exactly straight forward after that. Oh, the SP20 sucks doodles to change engine mounts on due to the fact the engine sits further back and towards the drivers side by 10mm or so each way...

Gav.

Well that makes 2 of us now, except I didn't take off my strut brace, I came at it from the bottom and took off the bracket from the back of the engine to the engine mount, I didn't take off the actual engine mount with the rubber bit in it.
As stated previously the front was so easy it took longer to get my tools out than actually installing it!
The rear was a pain in the butt. it took me around 2 1/2 hours from start to finish, only with the car jacked up in my garage. After using every swear word there is, and probably making some new ones up in the process, and losing some blood, and the skin from my wrists, hands and some off my face, I installed the rear inserts as well. After that I was that stuffed and cramped, I pushed the car in to the garage and locked it up. I'll post up tomorrow after I've driven it to see what difference it made. I'm hoping a lot of difference, as the front mount was torn to shreds.

[platypus]

gav, i'd done the 1.6 before yours! (same mount, same pains)

[chicaboo]

Originally Posted by chicaboo

Actually, I'm likely the only person in Oz to have done a rear engine mount on an SP20 with home tools and without removing anything bar the strutbrace to get to it! Andy had to take stuff off to do his.

Read my post again, I've done the rear mount on the 1.8 about 4 times by now, the first time with James' help. But an SP20 is not the same thing, it's much harder to get to due to engine placement, intake manifold, ABS equipment, etc...

No prizes for doing 1.6 and 1.8 rear mounts I'm afraid...
Gav.

[Ripper323]

Originally Posted by chicaboo

Read my post again, I've done the rear mount on the 1.8 about 4 times by now, the first time with James' help. But an SP20 is not the same thing, it's much harder to get to due to engine placement, intake manifold, ABS equipment, etc...

No prizes for doing 1.6 and 1.8 rear mounts I'm afraid...
Gav.

Ah, now I get you!!
Well any way my mounts are in, and I still haven't driven the car yet