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15-06-2013, 09:36 PM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central Coast
Car: 2002 SP20 BJ II-J48
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What 323 is right for me?
Hi All,
I am new to this forum and just looking for some advice one what everyone recons is the best 323 in my situation. I am looking at spending around 3-6k on a car and really like the look of the 323's hatch's in manual. I am looking for something that is reliable and fuel efficient so I think the 323 fits perfectly. I travel around 500-700km's a week for work so it will have to do a bit of travelling. I am looking around the 1998-2003 year models and looking for people opinions between the 1.6L/1.8L and the SP20. In my search I have found some very nice 1.6L version with low KM's and in very good condition. But does anyone who actually has one feel it is under powered at all? Also I am looking at a SP20 in my local area and it has a little body damage but the rest of it looks great and seems to be mechanically A1. My question with these is are they less reliable and a lot more costly to run and maintain (in fuel and repairs) then the 1.6L/1.8L variants? Thanks for your help, Matt |
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16-06-2013, 02:17 AM | #2 |
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Location: Sydney Lakemba
Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT
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Overall. All a sp20 is just a 626 GF in a 323 body with slightly higher compression. Which forces you to run premium unleaded. Yet I have seen no Sp20 with damage to it's engine due to being run on 91 base unleaeded. But I have seen all BJ's and BA models damaged due to Ethanol E10 useage. Nothing major just need a decent service and good fuel fixes it.
Which comes back to these cars. they are old. So you should decided now -what you want. Do I want the more powerful slightly more thirsty Sp20. because it's got a bigger engine and has nicer look to it. After that they all follow the same route. You find lowest KM's Nicest interior should come first. over Minor Mechanicals. All Mechanicals wear - you get suspension clutch gearbox bushing wear all cars. Anything over about 8 years old and anything over 100,000km's and more is a guarantee. But what some forget is a Worn interior can be harder to fix. A car with electrics played with too many times. Alarms unit in and out, stereos in and out etc. It can be harder to get a new seatbelt for some cars then it can be to replace a corner light. So you buy the best condition you can find. Note With SP20 - regardless of owner. Expect it to be driven hard. You can look for that nice old female driver. But don't expect even them not to give it hell. It was bought as a sports type car it will be driven off the show room floor by such a buyer and so was the 2nd or 3rd owner. the 1.6L and 1.8L are just as reliable as anything else on the road. As with all mazdas- picky on oil changes and general servicing. the BJ model is noted as being easier to work on them the previous model. Most common issue by used car dealers is any factory remove central locking not working etc. Switch's damaged needing replacement mostly window drivers side. Removal of modifications. Most now are written off by insurance and are sent to auction and stripped by spares people. Some parts are still somewhat hard to come by. The important stuff is the mechanicals. I don't think anyone one here and in my experience has had any trouble sourcing majority of parts. I will say they ain't cheap over all but unlike other models of car. Other then odd coil packs and oil seals I consider normal failures by todays standards. Reliable car. If economy is important by the 1.8L . the 1.6L does struggle with highway work IMO. the 2.0L is questionable. IMO because you can just by a 626 and it's a bit bigger and slightly cheaper to run on normal unleaded. Only weighs in at about 100KG. True the advantage is performance but if you really care for performance the choice 2.0L is the N15 SSS of that era. |
16-06-2013, 08:48 AM | #3 |
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Location: Tweed Heads
Car: 2002 mazda sp20 hatchback
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Go for the BJ model IMO in 1.8 or 2.0
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16-06-2013, 09:33 AM | #4 |
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Nothing wrong with the 1.6 BJs. Good thing about the 1.6L is the most were brought new by grannys/grandpas. So they have alot less mileage on them compared to the other BJ bigger engine varients.
Personally I dont like the BJ models, cheap build quality compared to earlier BG and BA. But earlier BG and BA are so old now I wouldn't buy one as they are falling apart. Especially if you plan to put 700km p/w on it, something to stay away from maybe. They are all quite old models now BG BA BJ, so the younger car you can find, the better. Last edited by project.r.racing; 16-06-2013 at 09:35 AM. |
16-06-2013, 10:48 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central Coast
Car: 2002 SP20 BJ II-J48
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Thanks for the posts guys! It is as I thought, do I want to pay for more in fuel etc for a bit more power.
I do a fair bit of freeway driving but as has been said the 1.6L ones are they ones with the low KM's and well kept. I have driven a toyota yaris a fair bit and they are 1.5L so it did feel it lacking a bit on the highway which is what i feel will happen with the 1.6l. I am not in a real rush to purchase so I think I will just see what comes up over the next few weeks. In the end i think I would buy either the 1.6/1.8/2 just going to depend on what is around and what is the best buy. What does everyone think of think Ford Laser i believe the GLXi is the 1.8L variant for ford? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sans-...lxi/1021677857 I spoke to the owner and he said that it has been serviced by ford up until around 50,000km and then by another mechanic until around 85,000km. He said it has been looked after but not had a service since July 2012 and the timing belt has never been changed. Do you think that is something to worry about? |
16-06-2013, 12:36 PM | #6 |
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100,000km was when mazda did my timing belt so you will be doing it with the next service
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16-06-2013, 12:43 PM | #7 |
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16-06-2013, 03:17 PM | #8 |
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don't know, I do my own
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16-06-2013, 09:17 PM | #9 |
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Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT
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yeah it will vary but minimal would be $500 - in Sydney most 4cylinder front end jobs are about $650. $800 for a V6 and anything rare - Nissan maxima - Vectra etc add $100 -200 more.
As for the Ford variant - Same ****. Just minor issue getting some body bits from ford but having said that actually better service by them then mazda from overall history. |
17-06-2013, 06:53 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central Coast
Car: 2002 SP20 BJ II-J48
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Whats everyone thoughts on this?
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...SSE-AD-1132724 It has been a repairable write off, should I just stay away? Matt |
17-06-2013, 08:02 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Adelaide
Car: 2000 Mazda BJI Protege
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I've got a 1.6, and it is quite underpowered. It is fine for me, however, as I do mostly city driving and economy is key for me. As rodhog said, any type of highway driving, the 1.6 will start to struggle (but it will go) although I must admit the car did not want to go over 140km/h on the way to Murray Bridge on the highway. In saying that if most of the highways have a speed limit of 110kp/h (most are, anyway), then you will have no trouble at all.
In terms of reliability, it has proven well. I'm still on the original clutch and I'm just about to clock over 226000km. I've also driven it quite hard at times and the motor takes it quite well. Nothing major has ever happened to the motor - the coil packs have never failed, and nothing inside the motor has gone, either.
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17-06-2013, 09:23 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Car: 2002 Mazda 323 Protege SP20 Sedan
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You will not regret buying an SP20. If you drive sensibly, fuel economy is pretty good. The handling is really nice compared to the other models too. A few little problems I have noticed in mine (its 11yrs old... lol):
- The radiator blew when I first drove it home (but I doubt this is common - just check for cracks, don't trust repaired cracks either) - The front suspension was a bit loose and wobbly (made a knocking noise) but simply tightening the bolts fixed that - The drivers side door switch doesn't work, but the electronics are smart enough to turn off the interior light after a while so its not a big issue My mechanic says Mazdas, even older ones are pretty reliable. We've had a few in the family and I believe him haha. Its a really nice car to drive, and the SP20 kit does look sexier |
17-06-2013, 09:32 PM | #13 |
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Location: Ipswich, Queensland
Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon
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As with all cars, make sure they've been maintained & the necessary items changed when necessary.
With all BJ 1.8/2.0L, coilpacks eventually die, drivers side & front engine mounts let go after 100k or thereabouts, and the intake tube cracks over time. Found this on gumtree, looks to be in great nick for an 01 model.
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17-06-2013, 11:01 PM | #14 |
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Location: Central Coast
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Yeah I must admit that I really do like the look of the SP20. And I have found a couple of nice examples but I think it may be stretching my budget a bit to much now. I have had to drop down to around 5k Max which is why I was asking about the SP20 i linked above as it would fall into my price range. I think I will stay away from it though as I don't really want a repairable write off.
I have pretty much decided on either the 1.8L or SP20 due to my budget I might just have to settle for the 1.8L which is still a nice car. When checking these out is there any really in particular I should be looking at? And would you be getting a pre vehicle inspection done on the cars? Or do you not recon it is worth it at this price range? Thanks again for your help, Matt |
17-06-2013, 11:06 PM | #15 |
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Nothing wrong with a repairable writeoff - the checks to get it passed to register it again are quite stringent (at least here in Vic). Better to buy a car on the register that you know has damage - as you know it's been fixed properly.
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18-06-2013, 06:27 PM | #16 |
I MUST STOP MAKING STUPID POSTS! Yet I keep on making them. And I wonder why I get banned?
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Car: auto
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Be careful of flood damaged repairable write offs though. Chances are if the electrics aren't rooted when u get it they will be shortly thereafter
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18-06-2013, 07:32 PM | #17 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central Coast
Car: 2002 SP20 BJ II-J48
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Thanks, I am looking into it further but does anyone know of how I can get any more information about the damage etc?
The owner has no idea and only found about about it when they did a report recently. Is their a site that gives more details then others? Thanks, Matt |
24-06-2013, 11:24 PM | #18 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central Coast
Car: 2002 SP20 BJ II-J48
Posts: 31
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Hi All,
Just to finish this off I bought a nice looking 2003 Mazda shades hatch tonight. Thanks for all your help! And will hopefully see you around in the other sections now! Matt |
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