2001 626 fs-de V 2002 Ford laser sr2 fs-de

[danbowe84]

Hi, just wondering if I can get some help with the differences between a 2001 fs-de from a 626 compared to 2002 fs-de from a Ford laser sr2? First thing I'd like to find out is the difference in cam gear specs ratios size etc
Will be more q's to come.

[Ice88]

Does it have a Dizzy? I forget the cut off point.

For the later years AFAIK, the cam gears and sensors are the same. The trigger wheel and crank sensor are different. The cams I cant remember, not sure if there the more mid range biased cams found in the US models or JDM Cams. (Edwin will know this)

In 2000 (so make sure you have a 2001) moved from cast crank i think it was (FS01) to forged crank (FSH9). Also moved from the FS02 head to the big port head used in the SR2s and SP20s (FS9 Casting).

The injectors maybe different as well but you will need to check.

EDIT: Oh and throttle body is linear on the 626 vs progressive on the SP20/SR2. ZEs also use the linear throtlle

[danbowe84]

When you say linear vs progressive do you mean linear-is one length intake runners compared to the vics/vtsc system on the sr2/sp20?

[TheMAN]

stay away from the aussie 626 FS-DE motors... none of them ever got forged cranks and none of them ever got the better FSH9 intake cam... they got the same good "FS9" head like the BJ's FP-DE and FS-DE/FS-ZE, but that's it... the aussie 626 FS-DE have cast cranks (except before 1 April 94 ones), 9.1:1 compression (same as all USDM FS-DEs), and crappy cams


there's no such thing as a "FSH9" crank.. the FS01 crank is the forged one, while the FS07 one is the cast

all FS02 heads have dissy holes and are found on GE 626s only, the FSD7 head is the low port head found on non-aussie GF 626s, and the FS9 (FSH9) head is the high port head found on the BJ 1.8/2.0, Premacy, and aussie GF 626

[Ice88]

Originally Posted by TheMAN

stay away from the aussie 626 FS-DE motors... none of them ever got forged cranks and none of them ever got the better FSH9 intake cam... they got the same good "FS9" head like the BJ's FP-DE and FS-DE/FS-ZE, but that's it... the aussie 626 FS-DE have cast cranks (except before 1 April 94 ones), 9.1:1 compression (same as all USDM FS-DEs), and crappy cams


there's no such thing as a "FSH9" crank.. the FS01 crank is the forged one, while the FS07 one is the cast

all FS02 heads have dissy holes and are found on GE 626s only, the FSD7 head is the low port head found on non-aussie GF 626s, and the FS9 (FSH9) head is the high port head found on the BJ 1.8/2.0, Premacy, and aussie GF 626

Cheers man. Did not know about the crank stuff, read about it somewhere on M247 (my first mistake ).

Got a question for you though, what was different on the LPG heads? Bigger ports? Smaller ports?

Are the cams in the Aussie 626 both FSD7? If so then its essentially and American FS-DE.

Throw an SP20 crank in and you could basically have yourself an MSP. Interesting stuff.

Originally Posted by danbowe84

When you say linear vs progressive do you mean linear-is one length intake runners compared to the vics/vtsc system on the sr2/sp20?

No. Notice I specifically mentioned throttle body. Basically its a method of giving the illusion of more power. STIs etc do it all the time.

In essence when your foots halfway to the floor the throttle plate is either a) open more then halfway or b) opened less then halfway depending on the effect desired.

In the case of the SP20 etc they fit a throttle body that's progressive so that low speed driving conditions is less jerky (I believe this is the reason).

Also Aussie delivered FS engines never had vtcs.

[danbowe84]

So I'd be better to build my sr2 motor with 250 000km's on the clock than a GW/GF 2001 626 motor with 100 000km's

[Ice88]

Depends on what you wanted to do really.

I'm assuming your going to go turbo as any numpty can make power with boost. Yes you will want to use a forged crank.

(I'm not saying your a numpty just that an numpty can make power with boost, where as a numpty wouldn't be able to make power NA).

[danbowe84]

Is numpty the car version of a noob? And yeah boost is my wet dream. Is there any chance my 626 motor could have a forged crank? Can I assume a sp20/sr2 crank is forged and would fit straight in?

[Ice88]

Originally Posted by danbowe84

Is numpty the car version of a noob? And yeah boost is my wet dream. Is there any chance my 626 motor could have a forged crank? Can I assume a sp20/sr2 crank is forged and would fit straight in?

Naw. Numpty is an idiot

From Edwins post no, no chance. Short of that car having had a engine die and a engine swapped in from an SP20 at some point.

Straight in? Should do. You'd be best served having the engine balanced etc using the SR2 crank.

[danbowe84]

So to recap:
intake cam-bad
Exhaust cam- same as sp20?
Head-ok
Block-ok
Crank- crap

[Ice88]

Originally Posted by danbowe84

So to recap:
intake cam-bad
Exhaust cam- same as sp20?
Head-ok
Block-ok
Crank- crap

Potentially injectors also, throttle body depending on view.

Think about this from a cost perspective though:
- Intake Cam ~50 if you can find someone who is willing to give you one. (people like to sell engines whole). Aftermarket cams will set you back about 300 (regrinds).
-Crank - Same problem as above, except everyone needs one of these. So no potential of someone having moved to aftermarket cams and has a stock set left behind to sell.

The last item will prolly have to come from an engine you buy thats stuffed. At which you know have two engines, a new engine thats stuffed that will have come from an SP20/SR2 so has the right cams and the better crank. You see where im going here.

If i was you I'd just sell that engine or return it and get a proper SP20/SR2 engine. I do have an FP Crank but that would require research and smarts to build an effective engine. If you have those then your more then welcome to it.

[danbowe84]

All I can say is I'm a numpty. So original plan was to take sr2 engine out and put the 626 engine in just untill sr2 motor was built. I was told to change switches, cam pulleys(they have different trigger points) and timing case cover. Can anyone confirm or deni

[TheMAN]

Originally Posted by Ice88

Cheers man. Did not know about the crank stuff, read about it somewhere on M247 (my first mistake ).

Got a question for you though, what was different on the LPG heads? Bigger ports? Smaller ports?

Are the cams in the Aussie 626 both FSD7? If so then its essentially and American FS-DE.

Throw an SP20 crank in and you could basically have yourself an MSP. Interesting stuff.



No. Notice I specifically mentioned throttle body. Basically its a method of giving the illusion of more power. STIs etc do it all the time.

In essence when your foots halfway to the floor the throttle plate is either a) open more then halfway or b) opened less then halfway depending on the effect desired.

In the case of the SP20 etc they fit a throttle body that's progressive so that low speed driving conditions is less jerky (I believe this is the reason).

Also Aussie delivered FS engines never had vtcs.

I have no information regarding the LPG heads
the USDM BJ also uses the FSH9 head but does use the LPG exhaust valves, probably for better reliability from high heat due to the precat

yes, all aussie GF/GW FS-DEs have the FSD7 intake cams, the USDM GF1 had FSD7 cams, while the USDM GF2 got the high lift version of that (but same timing) which is the FS1G and is found in the USDM BJ also

so in theory, swapping the FS01 crank into a GF 626 FS-DE along with the FSH9 intake cam will net you a low boost capable engine

[TheMAN]

Originally Posted by Ice88

Potentially injectors also, throttle body depending on view.

Think about this from a cost perspective though:
- Intake Cam ~50 if you can find someone who is willing to give you one. (people like to sell engines whole). Aftermarket cams will set you back about 300 (regrinds).
-Crank - Same problem as above, except everyone needs one of these. So no potential of someone having moved to aftermarket cams and has a stock set left behind to sell.

The last item will prolly have to come from an engine you buy thats stuffed. At which you know have two engines, a new engine thats stuffed that will have come from an SP20/SR2 so has the right cams and the better crank. You see where im going here.

If i was you I'd just sell that engine or return it and get a proper SP20/SR2 engine. I do have an FP Crank but that would require research and smarts to build an effective engine. If you have those then your more then welcome to it.

only the SP20 and Premacy got the VICS intake manifold in oz and most countries, it is better than the 626 version despite what many "numptys" tell you

the injectors in the SP20 and Premacy FS-DE are the highest flowing factory injectors

there are minor external differences between the 626 and SP20/Premacy engines... the coolant junction block on the side of the head, one of the water pipes and hoses are different...

the crank pulley is different between 626 and SP20/Premacy, and depending on which type of gearbox used in the 626, the cam pulleys maybe different



if you really must find an engine from a car other than astina, premacy is the only car for a 100% bolt on

[danbowe84]

Is the crank from an Aussie 626 the same(dimensions etc) as an sp20 crank except that it is forged vs cast? Is the cast one good for any application, so no good for boost, what about n/a?

[Ice88]

Originally Posted by danbowe84

All I can say is I'm a numpty. So original plan was to take sr2 engine out and put the 626 engine in just untill sr2 motor was built. I was told to change switches, cam pulleys(they have different trigger points) and timing case cover. Can anyone confirm or deni

Your not a numpty. You just lacked information walking into this. Use it as a lesson well learnt.

Cam Pulleys and sensor I believe are the same. Not sure for your year (check its pretty easy).

Crank pulley + trigger wheel will need to be swapped as well. Unsure if sensor is the same. Best off just swapping it anyway not hard. Total of like 4 bolts hold it on.

Originally Posted by danbowe84

Is the crank from an Aussie 626 the same(dimensions etc) as an sp20 crank except that it is forged vs cast? Is the cast one good for any application, so no good for boost, what about n/a?

Blocks are the same so would have to have the same mounting points. As for bearings, clearances etc. Not sure.

Honestly cast isn't really good for anything except econoboxes. Whether it'll hold up to your boost plans I have nfi. I may know a bit about turbo theory, but I do not keep track of turbo builds as they are usually pretty plain jane. People in the states that I know of don't build 626 FS engines, they may have had forged cranks in the states that's only something Edwin will be able to tell you.

Regarding NA, depends again on how far you want to push the envelope and what you want from the car. (And how you drive).

There is theory n stuff around why forged is better then cast but not sure whether its worth writing about.

[danbowe84]

Ok cool, the vics system, is that the butterfly that closes (or opens not exactly sure how it works) at 5000 odd revs, blah blah would I need to change that manifold over to the 626 motor or will the Sr2 car/ecu work with the standard 626 intake manifold. And how does the vics perform under boost conditions or are people more inclined to used a regular type intake manifold?

[Ice88]

Originally Posted by danbowe84

All I can say is I'm a numpty. So original plan was to take sr2 engine out and put the 626 engine in just untill sr2 motor was built. I was told to change switches, cam pulleys(they have different trigger points) and timing case cover. Can anyone confirm or deni

Originally Posted by danbowe84

Is the crank from an Aussie 626 the same(dimensions etc) as an sp20 crank except that it is forged vs cast? Is the cast one good for any application, so no good for boost, what about n/a?

Originally Posted by danbowe84

Ok cool, the vics system, is that the butterfly that closes (or opens not exactly sure how it works) at 5000 odd revs, blah blah would I need to change that manifold over to the 626 motor or will the Sr2 car/ecu work with the standard 626 intake manifold. And how does the vics perform under boost conditions or are people more inclined to used a regular type intake manifold?

Correct. Wouldn't need to change it no.

Guys in teh states swap to the 626 IM, few remove the VICS. Personally I'd service them and put back on the motor. They are of benefit.

[danbowe84]

Can you think of any reason why I would have been told to change cam gears?

[TheMAN]

the cranks can swap over, clearance specs same... the cast crank is much weaker and limits overall power and reliability... most GEs in the US have cast cranks and GF1s in the US have cast cranks... people who modified them had issues with them breaking once they added too much power

the only reason to swap pulleys is because the trigger wheels are different for the sensors, simple as that