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28-11-2011, 09:58 PM | #241 |
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really not worth playing with nitrous with these engines... they don't take kindly to abuse and it takes careful tuning to keep them together while making power... I know of one person locally here who blew his motor up 10 years ago
since he has a rare engine and everything is already in a high state of tune (for a street engine), adding nitrous is disastrous... the best thing he can do to gain reliable power is supporting mods, such as throttle body, induction system and exhaust system improvements... and something to get better quality fuel too... beyond that, there is a lot more involved to get any more power from a non-turbo engine, and it gets very expensive from there it's also not easy to mess around with the base timing as there is no distributor and it is all ECU controlled... some people on the miata forums have managed to slot the mounting points for the cam/crank sensors to change the timing on their NB's BP engines, but that's really a pain to do.... not worth it really, the only cheap way to get power out of these engines is with forced induction... but since his MSF motor is built for NA, that is what he's stuck with
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Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years Last edited by TheMAN; 28-11-2011 at 10:02 PM. |
28-11-2011, 11:24 PM | #242 |
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Im really happy with the way the car is now and TBH Im not after any more power, it can be a handful as it is now, Especially in the rain.
Also I can't enjoy it as its illegal to speed. I have upgraded the brakes and am now working on the cars suspension and within the next week I will have: Autoexe springs and shocks Autoexe five piece chassis member brace kit Autoexe front sway bar Progress rear sway bar all sitting in the shed waiting for a crazy day fitting it all. All this shall go nicely with the autoexe front and rear strut bars all ready fitted. Next year it will be a G series gearbox and LSD to go with the exedy clutch and MSF lightened flywheel in the shed. |
29-11-2011, 11:30 PM | #244 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Australia
Car: 2002 Mazda 323 Astina 2.5 V6 manual
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That's a much better dyno plot. I didn't want to comment before, but my FP made 125whp, after spending plenty on it though. A very light and playful feeling engine compared to the more grunty and serious feeling KL-ZE.
I'm hearing you on the speed thing too. All the speed limits on the local corners have dropped and the roads are getting too busy anyway. This just leaves traffic light drags, which is for cavemen in their supercharged auto falcodores, complete with arm hanging out the window.
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2002 Mazda 323 Astina 2.5 V6 manual. KL-ZE 2.5 V6 with stock intake, stock headers, Magnaflow cat, custom midpipe with extra 12inch hotdog, Racing Beat catback. BC Racing coilover kit, Mazdaspeed 25mm front stabiliser, Progress 22mm rear stabiliser, GTSpec front and rear strut tower braces. Enkei RPF1 15x7, Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 205/50 R15, RDA slotted rotors, HPX pads. SOLD |
30-11-2011, 07:28 AM | #245 |
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From looking at my dyno graph I can see that im not making peak power at 6800 rpm as the ZE should, its about 6000 rpm.
That means that either my intake or exhaust is causing it. Or it could be the ECU retarding the timing because of our sh!t fuel |
30-11-2011, 07:44 AM | #246 |
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probably timing as I said.... it makes a big difference at high rpm
do you still have the heat shield for the extractors? You should put it back on... a hotter exhaust is a better flowing exhaust!
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30-11-2011, 08:08 AM | #247 |
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The heat shield I have that came with the extractors hits the bracket for the radiator for a/c fan.
When I get some more cash I will buy a new radiator with slimmer fans and fit it. |
30-11-2011, 08:56 AM | #248 |
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hits the bracket? really? hmm... I'll do some research on this in a few hours to figure out why
back to the timing thing... I lost a lot of power on the dyno a few years ago when I set my J&S to pull back timing in the midrange... as soon as I bumped it back up, much power came back so I have a good feeling it has something to do with it you got other details of your exhaust?
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30-11-2011, 09:33 AM | #249 |
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Phil's whole engine sits further forward by 10-15mm because he still has F series gearbox and brackets. Even though the mounts are the same [except #1], the brackets on the gearbox are not, so the engine/gearbox is offset forward and to the left. This makes changing the rear engine mount a breeze on the FP-DE compared to the FP-DE, and also there is no ABS distro block in the way too.
This is an F series gearbox side affect [which also includes automatic transmissions too]. Last edited by chicaboo; 30-11-2011 at 09:38 AM. |
30-11-2011, 09:34 AM | #250 |
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It is a custom folded heat shield, I dont have a photo here but I can take a photo when I get home.
The heat shield fouls the edge of the motor for the fan from memory. There is a difference between the the 1.8 radiator and the sp20, the radiators appear to be the same size, its just a difference in fans, more so the shape of them. The exhaust is a custom 2.5" from stock cat back. It has 3 resonators and the rear straight through rear muffler, It has a nice quiet note. I used to have a cannon and had 3 resonators fitted to quieten it down, I had it removed and the rear straight through muffler fitted. |
30-11-2011, 10:02 AM | #251 |
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Those resonators won't be doing you any favours, might be worth getting a proper mid-pipe muffler combo in the future? It'd also be lighter
One of these will easily fit in the space between where the shield would be and the rad, they aren't very exxy and do a good job If you were anything like me, you would have been suffering from heatsoak and that wouldn't have helped at all. heatproofing that intake is next
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT |
30-11-2011, 03:53 PM | #252 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
and if someone was to work it all out backwards, 1st they would need to know the gear ratios and final drive ratios for said gearbox installed. again, alot of effort when the correct readout has the info a person may require. |
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30-11-2011, 04:51 PM | #253 |
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To get a printout with RPM on it requires entering extra details into the dyno (eg gear ratios etc)and on dyno day I just got a quick printout as I can get a reprint anytime.
The image you see is a photo mark took of the dyno screen. To work out RPM all you need to know is what is the redline or cutout was and divide from there. It pretty simple maths and no knowledge of gear ratios etc needed to get rough RPM. Next time I will ask for it in RPM just for you!!! |
30-11-2011, 05:36 PM | #254 | |
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Quote:
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30-11-2011, 05:42 PM | #255 |
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again, the dyno sheet does not show cut out. and cut out/redline rpm is much different than maximum power rpm.
how do you know where to shift if maximum power rpm is not known? |
30-11-2011, 06:49 PM | #257 |
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Cutout/redline is where the curve finishes at 7000rpm and this run was actually done in 4th gear.
The best shift point I have found to be about 6500rpm, it loves going all the way to redline but there is so much more power/torque available lower down the rev range that it doesn't hurt if you shift early. |
30-11-2011, 07:31 PM | #258 |
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Eh actually the ideal shift point will depend on each gear ratio in the gearbox AFAIK.
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30-11-2011, 07:40 PM | #259 |
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Lol the shift point is 60 when I hit the speed limit. Or 70-80 if im lucky in a few areas.
Gone are the days of there being fun roads with corners and 100 kph speed limits. |
30-11-2011, 07:53 PM | #260 |
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You live on the wrong side of Brisbane.
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