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23-05-2012, 09:27 AM | #1 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
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EOI: custom solid front swaybar for BA.
Hi guys, looking into a solid front swaybar to complement the suspension upgrade. I can get one made for just under $400 in the v6 size of 26mm just solid rather than hollow. Any interest before I get just one made, bearing in mind how hard it is to swap one without an engine removal...
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23-05-2012, 09:28 AM | #2 |
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understeer city.
what plans you got for the rear? |
23-05-2012, 09:30 AM | #3 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
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Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
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will this go well with my 22mm whiteline rear???
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23-05-2012, 09:58 AM | #4 |
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23-05-2012, 10:54 AM | #5 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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i knowi have a white line rear sway bar... there 22mm arent they??
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23-05-2012, 01:19 PM | #6 | |
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Car: Red '93 3000GT / Black '08 Ninja 250R
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Quote:
And you do not want a 26mm solid front. Ryan's dead on the money with understeering. You want some independant movement up front in a FWD
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT |
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15-08-2012, 06:38 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Campbeltown NSW
Car: 323 Astina KFZE JDM 2.0LTR
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exactly what i was thinking. all ur gona do is to get a whole lot of understeer and less sterring response/turn in
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15-08-2012, 06:42 PM | #8 |
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With chasis bracing, rear swaybar and stiff coilovers a front sway bar goes well.
Still oversteery... But it won't snap out. It's more gradual. And you greatly increase steering response btw.... Turn in is great... Mid corner not so much...
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15-08-2012, 06:45 PM | #9 |
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ain't gonna get oversteer with a 20mm rear sway bar. unless there is a poor suspension setup to accompany it.
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15-08-2012, 06:53 PM | #10 |
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Yeah good point. I read 22mm seems that was a mistake
But yeah... Adjustable coilovers (height and damper) you would be able to manage to make it oversteer. Brothers 300 has front and rear swaybars, chasis bracing, caster arms blah blah blah... Everything. Playing with the set up of the coilies and alignment can make it snap over steer, or hugely under steer. On a steet budget FWD.... Wouldn't bother with the front sway bar. Makes things way more complicated to set up and you will spend more money than the actual bar
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15-08-2012, 07:06 PM | #11 |
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Your bros 300 is RWD. Totally a different kettle of fish compared to a 323.
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15-08-2012, 07:10 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
If you can make a RWD under steer worse than a FWD on the gas... Then you can make a fwd oversteer with a front swaybar. So long as you have plenty of supporting suspension and chasis work... Which is why I said it would cost more than the swaybar it's self.
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15-08-2012, 07:16 PM | #13 |
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Yeah I've spend stupid amount of time and money on everything that can be changed, and it will still understeer before oversteer on my 323. And there are a few more changes to come. Oversteer will never happen. Could be the wide tread and huge rolling diameter of the tyres help that aspect though.
Personally I'd be aiming for a 22mm rear sway bar before looking at changing the front one. Last edited by project.r.racing; 15-08-2012 at 07:18 PM. |
15-08-2012, 07:27 PM | #14 |
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Wouldn't saver never to happen dude... Haven't seen many FWD track cars at all that doesn't have a upgraded front sway bar. Due to just calming down the snap oversteer. From
Just spending time with, around and working on plenty of track cars (fwd), the consistency was around 24-26mm bars usually set to the softest setting (3points of adj) all with beefy end links. And the biggest thing of them a 1.5 way LSD! All of them progressed through the suspension mods, performance levels and what not. And they all said the biggest killer of that under steer is a good LSD, all of them were running a wavetrack.
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15-08-2012, 07:42 PM | #15 |
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I have a clutch plate LSD. So it'll work on any surface or mixed surfaces. And I'd agree with those that have told you that. Nothing better than having near twice the traction while cornering to reduce understeer.
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15-08-2012, 07:47 PM | #16 |
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Oh ok... Think the Quaife run the clutch packs...
I really do want an LSD for mine... Waiting til I actually decide what gearbox/engine I am going to run. Anyways... That was completely off topic.. Sorry for the bit of spam
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15-08-2012, 08:05 PM | #17 |
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IMO a bigger front swaybar / or solid swaybar is a great big waist of money on a FWD, set up the car via shock and spring rates and a rear bar. Yes yes I know the Mazdaspeed car come out with bigger swaybars but they are for a track car , set your car up for road use and not a deadly in the wet race set up which you will meet the local powerpole.
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15-08-2012, 08:11 PM | #18 |
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Ahaha lol, that is so very true... Scary stuff in the wet :s
And really is extremely unsafe with race setups
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15-08-2012, 08:33 PM | #19 |
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There is a lot of changes race teams do to there cars in the wet , car goes back to a " street set up " less camber , softer bars different shock sets ( if they got time etc.
Guys don't fu#k with you cars by stuffing em with a front bar for bragging rights at maccs |
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