'97 323 Astina Hatch problems.

[PhunkyMcLovin]

Hi Mazdafreaks,

We bought a '97 1.8l Astina Hatch in Nov with 264k on clock... it smokes on start up and at high revs. This meant we got it very cheap: $2k (originally advertised for $3.5k).

It has since consumed at least 1.5l of oil!

I did some research which seems to confirm what the seller explained that the smoke was due to valve stem seals.

I have ordered a valve/head set from Repco which will cost me $475... how easy is it for me to fix this myself... any tips?

I am planning to change the oil at the same time to 30W-70 due to the age of the engine and my concern for the piston rings... is this wise?

Also the AC failed seemingly overnight... from ice cold to bugger all! If this is a gas issue would it have happened so suddenly? The same day I went over a speed hump with a full car and it bottomed out quite hard, would this have affected the AC?

I am planning to buy the head kit from Repco this week, I figure that even if I cannot manage it myself, I can ask a mechanic to do it and save the money on parts?

I look forward to any advice this forum has to offer, I have enjoyed reading the posts and really do love the 323 Astina's timeless looks and ride.

Cheers,
Marcus

[project.r.racing]

blue smoke @ start up = worn valve stem seals.

blue smoke @ high rpm = worn piston rings.

take the $475 VRS kit back to repco used and get a refund, and buy a whole newer 2nd hand engine for $475 and drop it in.

a/c issue - look under the front of the car for damaged pipes. the in and out pipes for the a/c condensor are right under the front bumper. if you have bent/damaged/ other them, then you will lose all your gas.

[lambs]

Originally Posted by PhunkyMcLovin

I am planning to buy the head kit from Repco this week, I figure that even if I cannot manage it myself, I can ask a mechanic to do it and save the money on parts?

There's no point in spending any money on a VRS kit or any other parts (even oil) until you've determined what the problem is. Usually that would be done via a leak-down test or at least a compression test. However, given that the engine is using so much oil (although you don't say how many k's over which the 1.5L was consumed) plus blowing smoke, I wouldn't bother with doing any work on it (esp @ $475 just for a VRS kit ), but just get a replacement engine from a reputable wrecker. Usually they'll give you at least a 3 month warranty.

The non-working a/c is probably a broken pipe or a damaged condenser due to the impact. It should be easy enough to identify the broken/damaged part(s), but you'll have to take the car to an a/c specialist to have the thing re-gassed.

[NaughtyGT]

Need to be more specific as above post has pointed out. How many miles did you travel to use the 1 1/2 ltrs? 264k's is getting up there in mileage on a 4 banger. Have you got underneath car & checked for obvious leaks? Around engine parts? On the driveway?

Take the advice the other guys have given! Grab a good 2nd hand replacement engine!

Concerning a leak-down test. Unnecessary unless you first do a compression test. If compression is down. You stop right there! If readings are up in the top limits specified, then you'd do a leak-down test to determine the problem area.

Mate. Take the gasket set back. Don't bother trying to fix an engine with high mileage. The engine won't be the only thing to have succumb to the mileage. Get a lower mileage engine "complete", state this clearly (you don't want the manifolds missing, clutch fan removed etc) from a "trustworthy" engine importer who can verify the mileage & compression of the engine they are selling. Yes 'trustworthy places are around. I have bought the last 2 engines, 1, the JDM B6T I sold to 'flyblown' & the 2nd, the 3.0L Merc engine. Both from outlets in Sydney (compression as new) & they were reasonably priced & the real deal! When I dealt with a wrecking yard. They couldn't even be bothered checking the compression & sent me 2 dud engines, charging me 2 1/2x the price & mucking me around for months! Unless of course you are "referred to" a good yard. I'm sure someone on this forum or another Mazda forum will point you to a place?

Also.

1) You don't know if the kit will immediately resolve all the problems .
2) You don't have the experience to do the job anyway so, labour will kill you.
3) The money you spend is just maintenance. Your not improving the car simply by repairing one thing on the engine. With a low mileage engine, you improve the car & extend the longevity of the thing

Food for thought. Next to good bodywork/paintwork. A strong, reliable engine the starting point on owning a decent car. Everything else revolves around these 2 facets.

[PhunkyMcLovin]

Thanks for the advice.

I have only spent $20 on ordering the Kit in to Repco (which is a bit of a cheek!). I have put another litre of oil in today 20w-50 as the litre I had added was still not sufficient to reach the L on the dipstick!

We have done about 1,500km and there are no visable leaks in our driveway.

Will get it compression tested and see if it requires a new engine or not.

If we do need to replace the engine how much will it cost to be fitted? Is it worth upgrading to a different engine or will the transmission not take more power?

The A/C: I cannot see any damage but I am not sure where the A/C pipes are exactly, does anyone know where I can get diagram or images of this?

Thanks again everyone for such a quick response!

Marcus

[lambs]

Originally Posted by NaughtyGT

Concerning a leak-down test. Unnecessary unless you first do a compression test. If compression is down. You stop right there! If readings are up in the top limits specified, then you'd do a leak-down test to determine the problem area.

A leakdown test will always tell you more about the condition of an engine than a compression test. Any mechanic worth going to will always do a leakdown test before a compression test because it immediately identifies the problem area. To do the same with a compression test requires it to be done at least twice and even then there are variables (such as engine cranking speed) that can influence the result. A leakdown test is far more reliable.

Whatever floats your boat.....

[PhunkyMcLovin]

Ok having diagnostic tests done next week, see what the damage will be.

Cheers.

[PhunkyMcLovin]

Oh dear, Mechanic reckons oil control rings on Pistons are gummed up... says not worth fixing but not going to damage engine, just upset neighbours with plumes on start up.

The AC condensor has a hole, he reckons it will cost $650 to fit a new one... how can I get this done for less?

[project.r.racing]

buy one for $299 on ebay.
fit it yourself.
regas for $80.