Time to replace bushes, but which ones?

marcs_sp20 · 30-08-2011, 10:06 PM

Hey guys,

Seeing as though the car will be getting some love hopefully in a couple weeks, I want to concentrate on getting the suspension setup right.

Now, my car currently has 215k on the clock, and runs only aftermarket springs & shocks, nothing else has been replaced. I do have here a set of rear endlinks to put in as well as the AutoExe 21mm Rear Sway Bar, and will have to replace the fronts end links as well, but one thing im not too sure on are the bushes for both front & rear of the car.

So, is there anything I should look at replacing over others, and the cheapest place to buy these?

Cheers
marc

DavoAust · 30-08-2011, 11:47 PM

I'd look at the control arms, front sway bar bushings (these will probs be a massive pain to get to though), trailing arms, tie rods and ball joints if you're that keen.

Orion · 31-08-2011, 12:20 AM

Steering bushings.

Not terribly important but while you are replacing things - it should make the steering a bit sharper

project.r.racing · 31-08-2011, 07:38 AM

As Dave said, control arm bushes and sway bar bushes.

The front control arm bush is pretty much straight forward. The rear you will get 2 different options and it also needs to be pressed in. 1 is a oem replacement and the other is a offset bush that allows for anti-lift or added caster depending on the way it is installed. Offset will be bigger $$$ over the other.

Also there is a few different makers of all these bushes. Whiteline, Nolathane (same company) and Superpro. I'm sure there is 10 or 20 more in the USA for the Pro5s. Nolathane for example are very similar to oem duro, Superpro is alot stiffer duro and much better suit to motorsports.

Front sway bushes should be alot easier to install while the gearbox is out, as 50%+ of the parts that are in the way normally will be on the workshop floor.

The rear bushes I'd only touch if funds allow and they are needed to be replaced. All you are doing is dragging the rear end around, and most of the bushed should be fine.

marcs_sp20 · 31-08-2011, 01:03 PM

The last time I was under the car the rear bushes looked fine, so I may just stick with just replacing the endlinks with the rear.

With the front suspension, im hoping to have the clutch, driveshafts, front brakes & all bushes done at the same time by the mechanics down the road from work here, so that should save some $$$ doing it all once in regards to labour.

Now to hit up Greggles in a couple weeks

familiagtx · 09-09-2011, 10:43 AM

Front lower control arm rear bush (caster) is a vertial pivot design, and with those sort of kms would definitely need to be replaced.

Fronts bush of the lower control arm are usually ok.

My work does exchange lower arms for the bj's utilising the superpro polyurethane, painted and cleaned like new with new ball joints ready to go.

Personally, I have fitted new arms to both of my sp20 with rubber bushes for the comfort and keeping as the manufacturer intended.

Totally changes the feel of the car and gets it heaps tighter in the front end from lower arms that used to have flogged out bushes that allows the car to follow its own path in graded bits in the road.

Rear trailing arms both need doing on both of my sp20.

I have purchased a adjustable rear control arm + trailing arm kit that come complete with new arms and bushes

30-08-2011, 10:06 PM	#1
marcs_sp20 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Ipswich, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon Posts: 9,769 View Photos By: marcs_sp20	Time to replace bushes, but which ones? Hey guys, Seeing as though the car will be getting some love hopefully in a couple weeks, I want to concentrate on getting the suspension setup right. Now, my car currently has 215k on the clock, and runs only aftermarket springs & shocks, nothing else has been replaced. I do have here a set of rear endlinks to put in as well as the AutoExe 21mm Rear Sway Bar, and will have to replace the fronts end links as well, but one thing im not too sure on are the bushes for both front & rear of the car. So, is there anything I should look at replacing over others, and the cheapest place to buy these? Cheers marc __________________

30-08-2011, 11:47 PM	#2
DavoAust Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Brisbane Car: Red '93 3000GT / Black '08 Ninja 250R Posts: 2,930 View Photos By: DavoAust	I'd look at the control arms, front sway bar bushings (these will probs be a massive pain to get to though), trailing arms, tie rods and ball joints if you're that keen. __________________ Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT

31-08-2011, 12:20 AM	#3
Orion SP20 Member! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Brisbane Car: Mazda SP20 sedan Posts: 1,769 View Photos By: Orion	Steering bushings. Not terribly important but while you are replacing things - it should make the steering a bit sharper __________________ Exhaust: Autoexe headers; Custom midpipe; Racing Beat catback Engine: AWR mounts; Twiggy cams; Custom CAI; RR Racing UDP; Mishimoto rad EMS: Microtech LT-10; J&S Safeguard; Gearbox: MSP LSD; Fidanza flywheel; 5th gear Rims/Suspension: MX-5 rims; Tokico Illuminas; Eibach Pro-kit; Progress RSB; AutoExe STB Exterior: MSP front lip & rear spoiler; Matt V headlights; AutoExe grill; EDM tails Interior: JVC AVX-77; Autometer gauges; DaveBs; B&M shifter Projects to come: Engine rebuild

31-08-2011, 01:03 PM	#5
marcs_sp20 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Ipswich, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon Posts: 9,769 View Photos By: marcs_sp20	The last time I was under the car the rear bushes looked fine, so I may just stick with just replacing the endlinks with the rear. With the front suspension, im hoping to have the clutch, driveshafts, front brakes & all bushes done at the same time by the mechanics down the road from work here, so that should save some $$$ doing it all once in regards to labour. Now to hit up Greggles in a couple weeks __________________

09-09-2011, 10:43 AM	#6
familiagtx Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: sydney Car: Mazda BJ SP20 Turbocharged Posts: 629	Front lower control arm rear bush (caster) is a vertial pivot design, and with those sort of kms would definitely need to be replaced. Fronts bush of the lower control arm are usually ok. My work does exchange lower arms for the bj's utilising the superpro polyurethane, painted and cleaned like new with new ball joints ready to go. Personally, I have fitted new arms to both of my sp20 with rubber bushes for the comfort and keeping as the manufacturer intended. Totally changes the feel of the car and gets it heaps tighter in the front end from lower arms that used to have flogged out bushes that allows the car to follow its own path in graded bits in the road. Rear trailing arms both need doing on both of my sp20. I have purchased a adjustable rear control arm + trailing arm kit that come complete with new arms and bushes Last edited by familiagtx; 09-09-2011 at 10:50 AM.

31-08-2011, 07:38 AM	#4
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	As Dave said, control arm bushes and sway bar bushes. The front control arm bush is pretty much straight forward. The rear you will get 2 different options and it also needs to be pressed in. 1 is a oem replacement and the other is a offset bush that allows for anti-lift or added caster depending on the way it is installed. Offset will be bigger $$$ over the other. Also there is a few different makers of all these bushes. Whiteline, Nolathane (same company) and Superpro. I'm sure there is 10 or 20 more in the USA for the Pro5s. Nolathane for example are very similar to oem duro, Superpro is alot stiffer duro and much better suit to motorsports. Front sway bushes should be alot easier to install while the gearbox is out, as 50%+ of the parts that are in the way normally will be on the workshop floor. The rear bushes I'd only touch if funds allow and they are needed to be replaced. All you are doing is dragging the rear end around, and most of the bushed should be fine.