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Old 06-08-2010, 07:55 PM   #21
mussing
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sealed is better if you want the bass to punch (how some people blow out back window)
ported is better for actually bass soundi suggest you take into account if you want to use the boot.
I thought these two were the other way around?
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:55 PM   #22
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Sealed has a sharper quicker punch better for fast beats, potted has a slightly slower response but deeper bass so it's better for anything except techno/house/elec etc.. Sometimes the waves can overlap on potted when used for fast beats giving wrong sound
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:34 AM   #23
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Yeah that's how I remember it. Ported is probably better suited for my listening taste which is metal but sealed can sound decent too. It will most likely come down to how much boot space I want to sacrifice.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:09 AM   #24
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When choosing a subowofer box, the decision between sealed and ported will determine how the final install will sound. The general rule for this choice is fairly simple.

Sealed subwoofer boxes generally are much smaller than ported enclosures. If you're limited on space, it would probably be a good idea to go with a sealed enclosure. Not only is there a size difference, but there is also a difference in sound between the two enclosures. Sealed enclosures tend to produce tight, accurate bass and have a flat frequency response curve. They are also generally the enclosure of choice when looking for a SQ (Sound Quality) oriented setup.

Ported boxes can get very large and have many varying factors that will determine their size and sound output. Ported enclosures produce louder bass than sealed enclosures, and allow you to tune the box to a specific frequency to determine how the bass will sound. Higher tuning on a ported box will get louder, but at the expense of sound quality. Lower tuning will still get louder than a sealed box, and at the same time will yield fairly good sound quality.

Port area and port type also plays a role in ported enclosures. Too little port area for the subwoofer box can result in port noise, which can severely detract from the sound quality of your setup. To much port area can also have a negative impact on the sound quality. However, if your goal is to get loud and not care about sound quality, then a ported box, tuned high, with a large amount of port area is the way to go.

Personal preference and size limitations will both play a role in the decision between sealed or ported enclosures. If you have the room, and you want to get loud, go with a ported box. If you're limited on space or are looking for the best sound quality possible, it would generally be best to go with a sealed box. Either way, as long as the specifications of the subwoofer box are within the subwoofer manufacturer's recommended box specifications, you should be safe with either choice.
so have fun
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:33 PM   #25
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in regards to space, you can MAKE a ported box that is shaped to your boot and tuned properly as per the internal volume (always add the volume of the spider, magnet and the cone to your equation of volume). this sort of ported box will be smaller in room occupied in comparison to a square, store bought sealed enclosure. a custom sealed enclosure will of course be smaller than a custom ported as the required volumetric differences are around 30-50% with the subs i have dealt with (kenwood, kicker and alpine) but i serously reccomend the sealed as ported can either a overpower the speakers, or b the amp will need to be turned down which yeilds a why the **** do you need to buy a big amp and run the sub at full capacity (or near full) if its too loud..
remember a subwoofer is only a small part of sound setup (remember its called 5.1 surround sound for a reason, the sub only produces beat and no mid/high sounds so its not as important as fast and the furious / need for speed underground made it out to be)
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:44 PM   #26
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Well I got one door done today.... I under-estimated how much time it takes hehe






This was what was in the front doors:


I mounted the panel behind the rear seat and started putting everything on before I had to finish for the day. The panel is to be covered in carpet eventually and a mono amp will be mounted to the opposite side of the Pioneer.





Does anyone know which fork terminals (4ga) I need for the (+) and (-) of the Pioneer amp? I bought some 4ga fork terminals from Autobarn but the forks are too small.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:41 PM   #27
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Today I ran 3 lots of RCA's and the remote cable under the carpet and finished installing the amplifier. A couple of shots from today....


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Old 28-08-2010, 08:39 PM   #28
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Well today I finally got around to putting a new radiator in, the old one was still going strong with egg n pepper sealing the leak but I figured I shouldn't push my luck lol




This pic shows the split down the side tank, hard to believe it was sealed up by some egg and pepper.



It hasn't leaked since putting it in nearly 2 weeks ago. I've been told by an ex-army friend that they did this to their trucks out in the bush and they lasted for 3-6 months of tough conditions.
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:08 PM   #29
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I went out last night and got some photos taken.















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Old 18-03-2011, 07:15 AM   #30
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I love it, what kind of back box do you have?
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Old 18-03-2011, 07:31 AM   #31
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Back box?
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Old 18-03-2011, 10:27 AM   #32
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Back box?
What the poms call a muffler
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Old 18-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #33
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What the poms call a muffler
Oh ok lol

It's a Fujitsubo that I purchased from a forum member here.
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Old 20-03-2011, 09:16 PM   #34
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Re-routed my audio cables and installed the Mono amp in preparation for an as yet unknown subwoofer.


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Old 14-08-2011, 08:40 PM   #35
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Well this weekend I decided to commence rebuilding the tired old engine at 203,000k's. It was guzzling more oil then fuel, missing on takeoff, started ticking when cornering and had developed a nasty grinding sound which I suspect may be the a/c compressor.

Time for a complete rebuild and new CV's.

I removed the engine this evening and all-in-all was a pretty stress-free experience except for a rounded nut on one of the engine mounts Grrrr, I tapped it off with a hammer and chisel.


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Old 16-08-2011, 08:00 PM   #36
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Starter motor, exhaust manifold and gearbox removed. I had to grind one of the manifold bolts off.
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Old 20-08-2011, 05:12 PM   #37
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A couple of update pics.....


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Old 21-08-2011, 07:48 PM   #38
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I had a productive day in the garage today.
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Old 21-08-2011, 08:38 PM   #39
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Once taken apart, how do you know what positions things are supposed to go for correct timing? I remember when I did my timing belt there was a triangle made with the gears, but that was easy on and off not pulling totally apart!!!
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Old 21-08-2011, 08:58 PM   #40
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Once taken apart, how do you know what positions things are supposed to go for correct timing? I remember when I did my timing belt there was a triangle made with the gears, but that was easy on and off not pulling totally apart!!!
It's all marked, I've taken photos along the way and placed everything on the bench in a specific order with clear labels.
There's a clear procedure in the overhaul manual for getting the correct timing when putting it all back together as well.
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