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Old 07-02-2007, 06:24 AM   #61
platypus
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which is why white posca pens are a brilliant investment too!!

especially when you do major work, as you mark all looms that are d/c with a number, mark all plugs with the cylinder number, and mark your disi the same.

its also useful to mark all water pipes if you are removing a large chunk of stuff for repair
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Old 13-02-2007, 03:26 AM   #62
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bit of a late entry to the conversation, but:

i do my own work at home, oil + filter, air filters, brake pads, brake rotors, etc. but i'm in the fortunate position of being related to a mechanic. so i tend to check if things will be in the 'too hard' basket for me before i start, or get him to bail me out when things go bad
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Old 22-02-2007, 12:40 PM   #63
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This Sunday is the "big" day, I tested the jack and stands on Saturday doing a wheel rotation on the MPS and seems good. Love being able to jack the MPS at the front and have it lift the back enough to slide the jack in too!

Just a few final questions about the plugs swap:
Do the like of Autobarn sell the anti-seize grease?
Should this be put onto both the plug threads and the lead boot?
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Old 23-02-2007, 10:40 AM   #64
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Do NOT put anti sieze on on the lead boot. Anti sieize compounds (greases) typically are metal based (fine nickel or copper particles in suspension) - you may short the spark between the top of plug and its base outside the cylinder....your cylinder may not fire or may suffer from a serious missfire.

There are high temp silicone (non conductive) greases available - but your lead boot may slip off if you use them..I wouldnt use any form of lubricant on the boot.

Sorry can't tell you where to buy or whether or not to use it on the plug threads....
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Old 23-02-2007, 02:12 PM   #65
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goto auto1 and get some spark plug grease.
comes in a little packet and has instructions on back.
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Old 23-02-2007, 02:16 PM   #66
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Yeah, picked some up last night! I think I got a little confused about what people were suggesting with it's usage.
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Old 23-02-2007, 02:28 PM   #67
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well mate, i wish u luck this weekend!!!
hope u dont stuff up anything!!
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Old 26-02-2007, 10:12 AM   #68
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lol, thanks for that!

Everything went fine, though I managed to rip a small chunk out of my finger when cracking the oil plug. Oil filter gave up a little bit of a fight but nothing a little tighter grip with a spare bike tube couldn't overcome. Was very careful with the plugs (T handle wrench fit perfectly) and applied grease as directed. Plug packs and leads came away easily and without tearing which was a bonus.

Oil, oil filter and spark plug change in my car and oil and oil filter change in my friends 200SX took about 1 1/2 hours all up and felt VERY rewarding. I was keen to get under and do another one!

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm converted to the home garage now...
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Old 26-02-2007, 11:17 AM   #69
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nothing is too difficult for somone to do. however, the length of time it takes to do it is the difference
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Old 26-02-2007, 11:59 AM   #70
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After numerous battles in removing the oil sump and after coming close in stripping it in my last oil change i ended buying one of these!

http://www.fumoto.com.au/

Works a treat...and REAL easy to do oil changes now!
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Old 26-02-2007, 12:08 PM   #71
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That looks sweet as! Did you buy from Fumoto direct?
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Old 26-02-2007, 12:10 PM   #72
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Get it from the usa website.
http://www.fumotousa.com/

Save like 25 dollars.
Delivery is extremely fast!
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Old 26-02-2007, 10:06 PM   #73
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My dad picked up a real handy thing for oil changes. A vacuum pump. You get a few different size pipes, feed whichever one fits best down the pipe for the dipstick and pump. Once pressure is built up it drains away itself.
You don't have any messing with the sump nut. Some cars you don't even have to get under at all if you can reach the filter from the engine bay.
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Old 27-02-2007, 08:50 AM   #74
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you guys realise that most sump plugs are actually magnetic.... when you take the sump plug out you are removing any little filings or shavings that have collected into your oil.

If you don't take the sump plug out these filings are going to still be there
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Old 29-04-2007, 11:35 AM   #75
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ebay is ur friend lol..i picked up a manual off there for $30 delivered..they are usually up round the $50 mark pretty sure
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Old 29-04-2007, 04:05 PM   #76
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i think i'd rather drain as most of the crap in the sump is at the bottom and you would have more of a chance to get rid of it if it was going with gravity....like oil leaks down is always the way....
EDIT: they tested on eof these in the autosalon mag and it didnt do to bad mess wise but whats the use of working on your car if your not goin to bleed, sweet and get dirty doin it.
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:06 PM   #77
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OK stupid question time. I am doing oil and filter service on our 97 Astina 1.8 and can't find the bloody oil filter!!!

Where is it hiding?
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:28 PM   #78
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behind the intake manifold, above the gearbox, between the engine and the firewall. depending on how skinny and long your arms are you can reach it from the top. i got skinny and long arms and i can reach it, but i cant change it from the top. best bet is to jack the car up, put some stands (or better yet drive your car up on some thing very solid) and get it from underneath
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:24 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70NYD View Post
behind the intake manifold, above the gearbox, between the engine and the firewall. depending on how skinny and long your arms are you can reach it from the top. i got skinny and long arms and i can reach it, but i cant change it from the top. best bet is to jack the car up, put some stands (or better yet drive your car up on some thing very solid) and get it from underneath
Thanks man. I found it

Unfortunately it still beat me though. I had the car up on ramps and could get my arm up and grab it from underneath, but I couldn't get it undone with limited grip. There was no way my oil filter remover tool could move around up in there either... What a lame design!

Had to fill up with the new oil and old filter
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:26 PM   #80
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damn man, next time get a rag and whipe it as clean as you can. then get a bit of rubber or anything gripy and flexible and wrap it around the filter and try to unscrew it like that. i usualy only use a bit of rag that i tighten around it
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