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Old 30-10-2003, 08:54 PM   #1
kar10w
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couple of sp20 car audio questions

hey guys.

1) i searched through our forum for an sp20 car audio wire diagram with no luck (if it's there i must be blind :P). anywho, just wondering if you sp20 owners have a car audio wire diagram? link? pdf? any help would be great.

2) anyone got instructions or steps to remove head unit?

tks guys.
l8zz.
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Old 30-10-2003, 09:24 PM   #2
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ok the plastic cover around the unit just pulls out [its on clips] once you pull it off you will see 4 x 8 or 10mm bolts gold colour undo them then pull out the head unit an unplug the wires
all wires on the back off the panel an the head unit only go back in there own socket u cant go wrong
ps when u pull the plastic surround off for the first time u will **** thinking ur going to break it but ive have mine in an out heaps an not broke it yet
if ive left anything out pm me an i can assist you good luck
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Old 30-10-2003, 09:28 PM   #3
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tks rod. i'll give it a go on weekend .
you've got 6" in front doors? you use MDF baffles? anyone else use MDF baffles?
tks.
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Old 30-10-2003, 09:31 PM   #4
dfvadr
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no i made up my own pods built them into the doors check my link there is sum shots there with the doors open
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2001 SP20 Mazda Astina Turbo
- t28b/b turbo teflon coated forge pistons 20thou o/size , billet rods , whole motor fully balanced
- custom body kit
- 18"ame's
- custom interior
- kenwood head unit , pioneer speakers driven by 800 watt amp , kicker subs driven by 1000 watt amps each sub [135.2db at supernats], two 1th caps 4 tv screens dvd player
- xbox
- airbag suspension with gas strut towers
- custom plates an airbrushing on bonnet
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Old 30-10-2003, 09:46 PM   #5
kar10w
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i see. once again i must say your car interior is HOT HOT HOT. can't wait to see her at auto salon .
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Old 30-10-2003, 09:46 PM   #6
kar10w
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oh, and so is the exterior rod . hehehe.
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Old 02-11-2003, 10:55 AM   #7
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For answers to both of your questions, check out the US Protege forums. http://www.protege5.com/vbb225/ has detailed answers under the car audio/electronics link - check out the sticky threads at the top of the page. Any more questions feel free to PM me - oh and check your email again for pics of the MDF baffles.
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Old 02-11-2003, 03:40 PM   #8
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well

i used mdfs baffles... i also ran 12 gauge cabling through the doors... absolute bitch, had to take each of the door OFF and drill through the plug in the body... sp20's are sooo not as easy to run high guage cabling as car with just a rubber tube between door and body

anyway if you need any help ill be more than happy to help
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:01 PM   #9
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Actually, you can run wires through to the doors without having to take them off. There's another sticky thread on the link I posted above which has a run through of how to do it. I haven't attempted it yet but it's on my list of to do things. Will let you all know how difficult it really is when I get around to giving it a go.
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Old 02-11-2003, 06:48 PM   #10
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tks guys. i'll check out those forums first and give it a shot before i seek further help. tks again .
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Old 02-11-2003, 08:50 PM   #11
dfvadr
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i run all 8 guage through the original rubbers an plastic plugs in the doors an pillars didn't have to take mine off just sat there lookin for about 1/2 an hour till i had worked out the best way it is not to easy but i did it no -one would even no they were touched
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2001 SP20 Mazda Astina Turbo
- t28b/b turbo teflon coated forge pistons 20thou o/size , billet rods , whole motor fully balanced
- custom body kit
- 18"ame's
- custom interior
- kenwood head unit , pioneer speakers driven by 800 watt amp , kicker subs driven by 1000 watt amps each sub [135.2db at supernats], two 1th caps 4 tv screens dvd player
- xbox
- airbag suspension with gas strut towers
- custom plates an airbrushing on bonnet
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Old 05-11-2003, 08:37 AM   #12
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I ran 14 gauge Stinger Expert speaker cable through the doors, which is plenty big enough for front speakers with good quality cable.

There is a plug through which the original cable goes once you get the rubber boot clear of it, and the holes in the plug aren't big enough for 14 gauge of course. You just need to drill a hole big enough for the cable....bit fiddly but no problemo.
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Old 05-11-2003, 06:19 PM   #13
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i also popped out the plastic plug and drilled the holes out to run 12 gauge speaker wire to my boston's in the front... i reckon it's worth doing... i can email pics if anyone wants some...
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Old 05-11-2003, 06:20 PM   #14
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I'd love some pics...
pernod@paradise.net.nz
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Old 10-11-2003, 12:13 PM   #15
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hey rod. took the stock headunit out and boy it was a bi7ch to take out. mine's held in by 3 clips on each side. didn't have four 8mm or 10mm bolts . but it's all good, i know how to take it off now . got the wire diagram and connected amp. will need to connect speakers soon. can anyone explain why i might not be getting any power to amp? battery connected to fuse which is then connected to amp. amp connected to headunit and there's no power? any ideas? tks.
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Old 10-11-2003, 04:40 PM   #16
dfvadr
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have you connected the remote wire as well if you only have the power wirre connected the anp will light up but want work you have to connect the remote wire too acc so wen turn the key to acc then it will work
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2001 SP20 Mazda Astina Turbo
- t28b/b turbo teflon coated forge pistons 20thou o/size , billet rods , whole motor fully balanced
- custom body kit
- 18"ame's
- custom interior
- kenwood head unit , pioneer speakers driven by 800 watt amp , kicker subs driven by 1000 watt amps each sub [135.2db at supernats], two 1th caps 4 tv screens dvd player
- xbox
- airbag suspension with gas strut towers
- custom plates an airbrushing on bonnet
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:23 PM   #17
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Have you fed a +12V signal to the remote terminal on the amp? I also presume you've got a ground wire already coming off your amp?
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Old 17-11-2003, 09:03 AM   #18
kar10w
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*phew* - amp wasn't blown. mate had connected fuse to -ve terminal of battery and not the +ve (derr karlo). signal from speakers is actually giving good output to amp then to sub.

doof doof.
tks guys.
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Old 17-11-2003, 05:37 PM   #19
dfvadr
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good news mate

always pays to double check ur work before u play
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2001 SP20 Mazda Astina Turbo
- t28b/b turbo teflon coated forge pistons 20thou o/size , billet rods , whole motor fully balanced
- custom body kit
- 18"ame's
- custom interior
- kenwood head unit , pioneer speakers driven by 800 watt amp , kicker subs driven by 1000 watt amps each sub [135.2db at supernats], two 1th caps 4 tv screens dvd player
- xbox
- airbag suspension with gas strut towers
- custom plates an airbrushing on bonnet
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