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Old 04-12-2009, 09:55 AM   #1061
Rupewrecht
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i work it out to be the same as Ryan - 58mm.

According to this, anyway - http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp

9mm deeper inside and 29mm wider outside, per side
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Old 04-12-2009, 09:57 AM   #1062
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i used this one, you supplied it many moons ago.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

good for only offsets/widths/track etc.
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Old 04-12-2009, 09:59 AM   #1063
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17x8 +35 = 82mm wider track...
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:01 AM   #1064
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Sorry, i mean the 16x7 +35 was the +58 per side.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:03 AM   #1065
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:04 AM   #1066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupewrecht View Post
Sorry, i mean the 16x7 +35 was the +58 per side.
you mean +29mm per side / +58mm in total right?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:06 AM   #1067
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lol yeah that.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:17 AM   #1068
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Guess it depends on where you measure wheel track from - whether it is the inside, centre or outside of the wheel.

My calcs where done for the outside of the wheel.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:23 AM   #1069
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Ahhh i see, I was going with the RTA terminology and they say new wheel track needs to be no more than 25mm increase, but they measure from centre of wheels. See page 2.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registrati...vsi09_rev4.pdf

So using their terminology, only offset matters yeah?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:30 AM   #1070
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not really. back spacing and wheel widths changes offsets and centreline tracking.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:50 AM   #1071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phly View Post
Ahhh i see, I was going with the RTA terminology and they say new wheel track needs to be no more than 25mm increase, but they measure from centre of wheels. See page 2.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registrati...vsi09_rev4.pdf

So using their terminology, only offset matters yeah?
If it is measured from the centre of the wheel then offset is the only thing that will change the wheel track - as offset is also measured from the centre of the wheel.

But remember that the change of offset applies to both sides of the car
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:54 AM   #1072
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if going from the centre of a wheel for tracking, then 5.5 +45 to 7.0 +35, it's 20mm wider tracking. so well within RTA +26mm guidelines for wheels.

Last edited by project.r.racing; 04-12-2009 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:53 PM   #1073
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cool, thanks guys
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:57 PM   #1074
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any one know whats involved in removing window tint? What do i need an what steps are involved?
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:30 PM   #1075
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A hot air gun (hair drier if you're desperate)
Something to lift the edge of the tint I.E. a sharp knife
Some form of solvent to clean up the glue
Lots of patience

The side windows are easy enough but the back window has the added complexity of the defog elements.

Basicly it's heat, peal, break the tint, heat peal clean... rince and repeat.
I've seen people remove the film from an entire window in one easy movement then spend an hour on the next one.
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:11 PM   #1076
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Anyone with a whiteline strut brace know whether it replaces the below pictured "brace" or is installed on top of etc?

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Old 06-12-2009, 01:50 PM   #1077
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Yeah, you take those off when you fit a strut brace. Also, you want the little white dot on your front struts to point to the front corners of the car [C spot position]. ie: white dot on front left strut points to front left corner, etc... Give me a yell if need a hand with this.

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Old 06-12-2009, 03:04 PM   #1078
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Okay what does the c pos in the tops change though, this was mounted back the way it was at purchase.

and thanks for the offer, only thing giving us trouble was the swaybar link nuts seemed to have fused to the bolt and made out of playdough, go them off and replaced anyway.

on the last strut then the brace and a test run before an alignment tommoz.
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:23 PM   #1079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Valerius View Post
Okay what does the c pos in the tops change though, this was mounted back the way it was at purchase.

and thanks for the offer, only thing giving us trouble was the swaybar link nuts seemed to have fused to the bolt and made out of playdough, go them off and replaced anyway.

on the last strut then the brace and a test run before an alignment tommoz.
C spot position adds +30' castor and -30' camber [0.5 degree], it's highly recommended. With the endlinks, you can feed a 5~6mm allen key into the end of the threads of the endlink to arrest them while you get at them with a spanner.
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:30 PM   #1080
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Yea prob is we burred the nut so no hold, but shes right well get some proper nuts during the week to replace these ones we had lying about, and the castor camber changes, im sure i read somewhere this will affect tyre wear?

or am i misken?
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