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Old 04-03-2005, 05:02 AM   #81
boostedbatman
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You want me to fit my head ino a v6 engine bay???????????
If I dont make it back its been great knowing you all
Too dark to tell at present as the sun hasn't woken up yet
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Old 04-03-2005, 09:49 AM   #82
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hehehe.

*narrator voice*
The Nation holds it's breath as we wait for the return of boostedbatman. Will he return triumphant, or will he fall to the unrelenting mercy of the V6 engine bay?
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Old 04-03-2005, 12:14 PM   #83
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actually, you've got a point. I tried to have a look at CiTyEnds' mums import V6 and just laughed...

just remove the airbox, ya slacker Pete
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Old 04-03-2005, 05:49 PM   #84
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*****More information Re: MSP LSD*****

Quote:
Originally Posted by Originally Posted by ROB-80E
Hey mate, hoping you can help me with this one. I'm pretty new to this site, so I'm doing as much as I can to dig up as much info as I can, but it all seems very sketchey.

I'm looking at getting an MSP LSD to put into my astina. I'm currently running 200Hp at the wheels, and looking to go more. Do you think with the welding mod you outlined, this will hold up? Do you know what's the know'n limit these things have been pushed to so far before going to the Quaife?

Also, I love to throw my car around the twisties, and also do drag racing. This was something I dug up that you said...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TuffBurn
I've heard people say that the newer LSD (which is the one I have) is crappier than the older LSD found in the first MSP's. I don't really agree on that as I have driven and raced an MSP with the original diff in it and my MP3 with the newer diff in it and if anything I preferred the newer one when auto-xing and road racing. I was very happy with the lockup and the way it pulled out of turns when I overdrove or so forth. It doesn't have as high of a torque bias from my understanding, but none of them are close to the quaife on the torque bias either. It does the job and I was happy with it.... so I wouldn't be that nervous about the newer LSD's. If you want to spend the money knock yourself out with the quaife as it is the better LSD, but I really don't think the vast majority of us would be able to tell the difference under most of the driving we do. Some of the better auto-x and racers on here may notice the difference... everything else i think is placebo effect notions on the users part.
I'm guessing off you saying that, you don't experience any catter from the LSD locking through and out of corners? Is this because of the torque bias (I'm pretty new to LSD, so don't really know how the biasing works). But I thought the biasing was only related to the torsen type? Anyway, my main concern with going a clutch type LSD (MSP) is that I'll loose cornering stability and also, concerned that the MSP will not hold up to drag events.

Sorry for the long info, but seems as though your pretty involved and I thought you'd be able to help me most.

Oh, one LAST question, when you took out your diff, you didn't happen to count the number of shaft splines on drive axels did you?

Cheers mate, any info will be greatly appreciated
ROB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reply from TuffBurn
Well I haven't much time right now to reply to everything but here is some info...

I ran 200+ to the wheels no problem. You won't have any issue if you have it welded. Even without it welded you may still be ok, but it is cheap insurance.

The MSP LSD IS a torsen type. It does use clutches but it is also torque sensing. So it's a Class 2 LSD basically.. if I remember the classing system right.. but basically it is a mechanical/clutch torsen diff. Half gear half clutch so class 2.

I never experienced any chatter whatesoever and lockup was very even and solid. It locked great for launching, and also did fabulous if I overpowered a corner and lit up the tires... in a high speed road race on slicks the LSD saved me repeatedly. So no complaints there. The quaife is a better unit, but you are eating a LOT of cost for an improvement that will be negligible to 90% of drivers.

I have the axles out on my car right now it is in rebuild (see the thread A Rebuild Story: A Forged MP3 for more info), so I can try and count those splines for you.

Have a good one!

Steve
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Old 05-03-2005, 06:10 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupewrecht
actually, you've got a point. I tried to have a look at CiTyEnds' mums import V6 and just laughed...

just remove the airbox, ya slacker Pete
But me has long since removed the airbox
P.s. Giggle away Dan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupewrecht
check the code just near the front engine/gearbox mount
It has taken me 24hrs to get my damn head out of there and I still am no wiser, I will be when the engine swap is happening, when is this TorsenLSD looking to be happening anyway??
And as far as a documentary goes we could start one on the car at the moment
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Old 09-03-2005, 05:49 PM   #86
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Hey Hey we have a code
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupwrecht
check the code just near the front engine/gearbox mount
Its hiding under the Starter Motor. Its too hard to read with your head in there but I managed to scrub it with Charcoal and press some paper against it to get a mirrored reading
It reads G561 or G581 so does this unlock any doors for anyone as this is a new one to me.
Now you are allowed to stop giggling Dan
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:49 PM   #87
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Right o, we have confirmed that the drive shafts for the MSP diff is 28 splines.

Boostedbatman, the key factor with your box is that it is G series. The only things that will be a inconvenience factor, like myself, you will have to use your original ring gear and double check the amount of drive shaft splines you have going into the diff.

Based on the information I posted earlier, and the amount of interest being shown, I personally think that the MSP diff will be a better option as long as the strengthening mod is done. Guys in the US are throwing quite a but of stick at these things and they are holding up fine. Alot of them are running consistent 13's (ranging from low to high) with no problems.

I'm doing alot of emailing to companies around the world to source the best price for us. At this stage it's looking like NZ is the go.
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Old 12-03-2005, 03:41 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupewrecht
the LSD only fits G series, afaik


interesting news today - i bought a g series and an f series

the g series for the same price as the f...because they didnt know it was a G...suckers!

Code is G5MR....which means it's not a BA g-series...so does that mean it's from a BG astina then?
i'm sure there's some moral law against quoting yourself...

but interestingly, the G5MR01 that i bought as an unknown quantity as mentioned above IS actually a BA G Series - as i bought another G5MR01 (thanks adam!) today that is definitely for a BA that has the same code and is identical.

and no, i needed aanother one as the first one is stuffed internally. be interesting to see if i can get a refund!
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:58 PM   #89
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.. and this new one has a diff!

AP
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Old 16-03-2005, 10:29 AM   #90
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Does anybody know that US website that listed all the models and what box they
had. I thought I had it as a favourite but cant find it.
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Old 16-03-2005, 10:36 AM   #91
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http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/

this one?
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Old 15-04-2005, 08:29 PM   #92
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Another possibility???? http://www.oemfordparts.com/PartDeta...bCategoryID=70

I'm looking into it.
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Old 16-04-2005, 04:30 AM   #93
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Now we just have to find out how much of a flogging it can take............*Dan, Dan the Gearbox Man*
hopefully it will fit all G series seeing that I have a different one to the rest of those posting.
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Old 16-04-2005, 04:56 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROB-80E
Another possibility???? http://www.oemfordparts.com/PartDeta...bCategoryID=70

I'm looking into it.
well i remember that some US mob was selling stronger internals from a focus box that fits in a G series laser box...so i don't see why it wouldn't fit.

but all the G's are slightly different inside.
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Old 16-04-2005, 09:39 PM   #95
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a question, is the gearbox in the famila gtx's and gtr's f-series?

and why are the f-series boxes weak?

also for reference, the bjii sp20's have the G5M-R gear boxes. i think the j48's have the G15M-R boxes. pete, to cross reference, my gear box stamp is G561. when you're next under the car, look at the gear box from the firewall side and you should see the white label that shows the gearbox code
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Old 17-04-2005, 01:00 PM   #96
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No, the 4wd boxes are G series boes. They are a G5MXR code. X donoting the 4wd.

F series boxes were made cheaper with less metal = smaller parts. They were originally designed for engines that put out roughly 60kw at the fly.
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Old 17-04-2005, 07:56 PM   #97
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oh ok. thanks.

so the G boxes arent that strong either? i've read the familia gtx and gtr guys say the gearbox is the weakest part of the car and quite simply sucks
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Old 18-04-2005, 04:04 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedbatman
Hey Hey we have a code

Its hiding under the Starter Motor. Its too hard to read with your head in there but I managed to scrub it with Charcoal and press some paper against it to get a mirrored reading
It reads G561 or G581 so does this unlock any doors for anyone as this is a new one to me.
Now you are allowed to stop giggling Dan
Seems as though we might have the same box there Andy, but I will look for that white label to be sure.
The boxes will act a lot stronger with the addition of LSD, mr speed in the US who makes the Supercharger Kit for the K series v6 references the fact that with the addition of an LSD will handle 350-400whp and there are guys in the US that are running 350 all day in theirs with no problems, but that will also come down to history of abuse.
but you should definately be able to handle more torque with an LSD as it will then take the continued strain off the same part all the time and distribute the torque so its not so hard on the left side continually
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Old 18-04-2005, 09:12 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twilightprotege
oh ok. thanks.

so the G boxes arent that strong either? i've read the familia gtx and gtr guys say the gearbox is the weakest part of the car and quite simply sucks
the AWD boxes seems to break more than the FWD boxes, but the FWD ones still break. the SP20 boxes are no stronger, either

there are mods you can do to them, but it starts to get expensive after a while.

but in the end, the casing is the problem. it just can't deal with a heap of torque low in the rev range
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Old 18-04-2005, 09:32 AM   #100
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so why hasnt anyone cast a superdooper strong case ... let me guess ... $$
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