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01-07-2004, 08:05 AM | #21 |
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its worth checking to see if ur car has heating vents under the seats ( for the rear passengers ). that 94-98 astina definitely does, i'm not sure abt the others.
u dont want heated air blowing onto ur amp ! |
01-07-2004, 08:17 AM | #22 |
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hahahaha - what's heating use for???
read - i'm in brisbane |
01-07-2004, 09:05 AM | #23 |
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i had to trim the heating duct back to fit my changer. you can duct the warm air over or around your amp using some plastic or summit, (old ice cream tub or likewise thin plastic stuff) or maybe even just block it off.....
i ducted mine over it coz i live in scotland.....brrrrrr. :roll: |
03-07-2004, 02:19 PM | #24 |
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so...
what would be a good amp to run my speakers that i meantioned in a previous post?
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03-07-2004, 05:58 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
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04-07-2004, 08:26 AM | #26 | |
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Re: so...
Quote:
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07-07-2004, 10:18 AM | #27 |
living in the past man
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blowing hot air wouldn't be such a bad thing, since you really won't blow air over 28degrees... the important thing here is that the air is flowing....
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07-07-2004, 10:31 AM | #28 |
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that's true. i'm sure any air the air cond will blow will be cooler than what the amp can get up to
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11-07-2004, 03:27 AM | #29 |
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Zed I'm willing to spend about $700 - $800 total. I also have another important question.. I'm still not too sure whether JVC is a good brand head unit.. I know JVC has a very good reputation but I was wondering if there's anything better out there that I could go for. Also.. what's the most powerful head unit on the market now? I know heaps of these head units say that have a 4x50W output but then when you read the specs its only, for example, 4x13WRMS. So whats a good buy.. I wanna make sure I spend my money on something worth the money. If anyone can help.. please do!
Thanks in advance,
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11-07-2004, 09:05 AM | #30 |
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JVC make good quality HUs and there's not much else around that can beat them in the value for money stakes. Other brands to consider are Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Clarion and Eclipse.
With HU power outputs, they're all much the same - labeled 4x50W or 4x45W but are actually only 12-13WRMS like you say. The most powerful HUs are the Alpine ones with the V-drive internal amp which are marketed as 4x60W but put out around 20-25WRMS, but the V-drive internal amp only comes with their high-end (ie expensive) models). What exactly do you need to buy with that $700-800? You've already got 4 speakers right? What are they?
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11-07-2004, 01:13 PM | #31 |
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Well i have a pair of pioneer 6.5" two-way splits in the front - 220W max and nominal input of 60W. In the back I have a pair of cadence 6.5" two-way coaxials with 150WRMS/300W max.
So far thats what came int he car when I bought it.. it had nothing else.. no head unit. It's cables used for an amp so obviously whoever had the car before me had an amp and possibly a sub. What I wanted to do with my $700-$800 was to get a head unit, a 4 channel amp to run 2 speakers and the sub bridged. I was looking at maybe a 12" or 15" sub. What would you recommend? Would you recommend a different setup? Also.. for the $700-$800 I would probably spend most of it on the head unit and wait a bit till I get an amp and sub so that I could spend a little more.. or possibly get two amps and have all my speakers and sub running off amps. What do you think are good brand amps? What would you suggest I run off the amp if I get one.. the front or rear speakers? Sorry for askin all these questions.. i'm new to car audio. One more question.. what would you use a capacitor in your car for? I know what it does and what it's used for electronicaly but I can't see any practical application for it in the car. Thanks!
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11-07-2004, 09:13 PM | #32 |
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$500 is enough for a good head unit. sub and amp....for an ok combination, dont expect any change from $500.
sub sizes - depends on your taste of music. a single 12" is more than enough for most people. i have a single 10" that i'm building a box for a the moment. it'll be enough for me for sure. dont forget the bigger sub you get, (in general) the bigger box you have to build. also the box depends on the sub too. a 50L box with one sub will be perfect, but will sound like dog sh!t with another...do some investigations first as to what size box you are willing to get/make/fit in the back of your car, then work out what subs will work with that. it's not as easy as it sounds! capacitor - stores electricity so when you really up the power you wont drain the battery. well that's my understanding of it. really only used for show cars. |
12-07-2004, 05:13 PM | #33 | |
living in the past man
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Quote:
pop caps are used to "fill" the gap that was left by a big beat etc, with a pop cap you should have less light dimming, coz in the quiet parts of the music, it charges (like 1/2 a sec) and in teh loud beats it discharges.... think of it as a surge tank for your amp in regards to any stereo gear, you should splash out, if you have 500 and a self install try to scrape together 600 for up market stuff... you get the minimum, and you will want more, carefully choose what you want/need... i want a new HU, but i'm still trying to work out if i want the DVD player or not....
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12-07-2004, 07:09 PM | #34 |
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ok - yeah i was never really sure what capacitors do...
with the HU you're correct. in my civic i had the top of the range alpine and it was great. after owning it for 4 years and sold it with my civic, it had only just been replaced by a model which just looked different, but everything was the same. but then again $800 for a HU is a lot...that's why i'm keeping my stock HU (other reasons as well) because i can spend sooner on the rest of the setup/car etc |
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