thanks! now i can leave and return with a kilo of grease, sore knuckles and glass in my shins. yeah baby.

Don't forget the rear calipers are the same.

Yeah. At the wreckers now and there's heaps of 626 with complete parts, but are they compatible? Also there are a few hatches with i4 engines but 5 stud. Early models. Will these fit? They are pretty much all missing the CV joints, but is this what you've called a stub axle? I'm hopeless!

Adding to that there are differences in rotor diameter. Jeez.

No idea on 626.

I'll come tomorrow and there's a 4cyl hardtop and I'll convert it and then take the finished project home. This is the only way I see how I can end up with the correct parts. All of this to get those tourings to fit :P

Some info and pics on my current setup. All from BA V6
Front knuckles, disks and calipers (ABS sensors would bolt to the knuckes and act on a tone ring, where fitted, on the CV housing)
Rear knuckles and disks only (not using the ABS sensors)
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showt...t=14253&page=4

ok reviving this again, and restart the search, now that my CV joints are fairly well rusted on... I need to buy:

lower ball joints *as they are bigger as mentioned above?*
knuckle and calipers. extra wheel nuts and some 5 stud wheels.
Rotors and v6 pads.


undo lower ball joint, remove gearbox end of cv (as my hub end is stuck!), brake hose, and 2 bolts for the strut, undo tie-rod thingo too... pull it off in one big mess, get new cv's to suit a G series box, replace cv in the gearbox, bolt on new ball joint, knuckle, connect brake hose, new rotors/brakes and hey presto?

on the rear, remove brakes and whatnot, keep caliper. remove the 4 stud hubs (how?) and replace with 5 stud hubs, new 5 stud rotos and keep existing pads (or buy new ones)

is that all? on the rear, whats involved in removing it?

of course i need to swap this bloody gearbox before hand. GAH. so i cant do that (unless i want to buy 2x cv shafts- although i have 2 new ones awiting for my HT I could use for RWC...

front-
rotors
caliper
pads
upright
5 stud hub

rear
5 stud hub
5 hole rotor

as a minimum. but if you are supplying new rotors, then new pads would be the go also.

Rears,
Jack car and place on stands
Remove wheels
Release handbrake
Unclip brake hose from strut
Undo two bolts holding the caliper to the hub, remove caliper
(idealy at this point you'd have something ready to support the caliper and not let it dangle in the wind.)
Remove bolts holding hub in place, remove hub

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/1706/img0519k.jpg

Reverse procedure...

Took about 30 minutes per side, fronts took much longer as I did tie-rods and lower balljoints at the same time.

Thought so, awesome. Thanks
new pads for sure.