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YES! You have to double clutch!!! If you don't you're puttting more wear on stuff than if you don't blip the throttle at all!!! By not double clutching it means the engine isn't connected to the gearbox at the point where you rev the engine... i'll try and explain it this way: i'll use 4th-3rd...
- Engine~Inner Clutch Plate (1)- Outta Clutch Plate~Input Shaft (2)- Output Shaft~Wheels (3)-
So that's the three inline connections we're talking about... you want all three to match 'at the point where you release the clutch after selecting the lower gear'...
I'll explain it mechanically in two steps:
1. To match the input shaft to the output shaft (ie, the wheel speed)... this is done by revving the engine in neutral (because you can't rev it in gear), and since the gearbox needs to be connected to the engine, the clutch must be out... so that forms the first part (clutch from 4th into neutral, then clutch out)
2. to select the lower gear while the engine is at a similarly matched *falling* rpm... (clutch from neutral in 3rd, then clutch out)...
Now the problem with not double clutching is that parts 1 and 3 are at road speed, whilst the inner 2nd part (input shaft) is at idle (or the previous gears' speed), so this wears both ends of the inner connection... firstly because you're relying on the synchros's the match the two shafts of the gearbox, and secondly the the clutch, because one side is at a falling RPM, and the other is at a rising RPM.
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