SP20 TURBO KITS

[TDK]

http://www.spool-turbo.com/SPOOL-TURBO.HTML

[preeman80]

lol.. spool-turbo.com.. should have seen that one coming :wink:

hmm.. now I am just straight out confused about value for money and performance bang! :?

[wiredone]

preeman80...
as far as avoiding import duties we can try and get juan from hiboost to lower the price on the invoice... although it kind of gets shady because it is our rep on the line if customs is unhappy...
we are the only authorised distributor of hiboost stuff in Aus, so i don't think juan will direct sell to you, as we have trade agreements (we had to set something in stone to make spending all the dev work and time on it worthwhile)

we install the hiboost kits for $1000 and you should get your car back in 2 business days, depending on how busy we are and if everything runs smooth...

insurance:
firstly to make the car 100% street legal you need to get the car engineered, we do not do engineering so you will have to find someone local... you can get the car insured without being engineered, but depending on how police are in your area you may have some long walks home

our car is insured with justcars insurance comprehensively and it cost $2600 a year and we have unlimited modifications....

[preeman80]

wiredone: Like I said some one in the states is going to buy it for me. So I am not buying it from them directly. As far as someone selling to me, I checked with them a long time ago, before I saw your car with HiBoost kit and they were ready to sell, but now, they prob changed that.

My friend in the states does owe me a favor and money, so I think the amounts should work out.

Can I ask if you are under 25 for the cost of 2600 a year?

Finally do you have the 0-100 time, 400m time? dyno chart? the figures? Let me know, thanks, if anything I would be seeing you guys early next year if everything is still good.

[wiredone]

hey there preeman80...
yes in answer to your question i am still under 25... so that is the price you should recieve

i must also add though that the $1000 install is for our kits... not the hiboost kits. When you buy a kit from us you already pay for the tuning for the ecu and the the modifications which make it easier to install... its all factored into the pricing. So we would have to charge more for the install as we would be giving your ECU a flash, adding our addons to the kits etc. which weren't originally there.

In the end it may be cheaper to just buy aussie made, because speaking to everyone down at the workshop we would have to price all the mods we have made and the hours of tuning and sell them to you as well as the $1000 install. =(

We would still be more than happy to install it for you but you have to keep in mind that when you pay for our kit your paying for all the work that has gone into it to make it work on aussie sp20's.

By the way for everyone who wants to know =) we're putting forgies in the car very soon... watch the mazda sp20 make a name for itself... =)

[NZ_mazdaSP20Black]

[b]hey guys

I'm new here but i'm here ask for some help and info I'm getting an sp20 soon hopefully.

But I live in new zealand and wanna know how much to would cost to get a turbo kit to auckland in New Zealand can anyone please help me????? :?:

if you can e-mail me or post a message on the forums for me i'll try to check every night thanks.

[twilightprotege]

mate try asking the ppl where the kits are made - for more info you can also look at www.protege5.com - a more technical forum than this one.

[NZ_mazdaSP20Black]

thanks mate if you find out anymore info please let me know

[pookiesp20]

hey people
i just have a quick question im turboing my sp20 and i was wondering if the factory computer will handle it im only running low boost (7psi) if not wat sort of piggy back ecu should i run and how much would i be lookn at??

[DVS]

factory ecu will **** pants and not work... dont bother with piggyback and go full aftermarket tuned looking at $2000 rough figure

[Ice88]

Could use MPS ECU i guess if you can find one. Prolly best looking at full ECU, much better

Haltech or Microtech have been proved to word on SP20s

Microtech LS10
Haltech E6s

The latter is rather old now so id prolly be looking at the newer ECUs, dunno if any of the maps available would be a straight swap though. In terms of available maps, the microtech has more but none are tuned for aussie conditions that i know of. So would be fine for a base map to work from but the resulting end map may be alot different.

When you get your car tuned, go for road tuning as opposed to dyno. Neither one in singularity will make for a great map, to get the most power a dyno run is needed. But to get a nice driveable power band (the aim IMO) road tuning is more effective IMO. Dynos generally more expensive too.

[LordWorm]

Originally Posted by Ice88

Could use MPS ECU i guess if you can find one. Prolly best looking at full ECU, much better

You mean the Mazdaspeed Protege ECU? wont work. Not without changing a bunch of stuff - would work out more expensive in the long run.

Haltech or Microtech have been proved to word on SP20s

Microtech LS10
Haltech E6s

The latter is rather old now so id prolly be looking at the newer ECUs, dunno if any of the maps available would be a straight swap though. In terms of available maps, the microtech has more but none are tuned for aussie conditions that i know of. So would be fine for a base map to work from but the resulting end map may be alot different.

E6X has been replaced by the Platinum series. In both cases you'd want a full tune anyway. Base maps on these things are not really designed to be driven on - they get you to the tuning shop and thats about it. The australian Microtech map will work out of the box (car will fire on the first crank if its wired in properly) - but its nasty-pig rich and rough...

Microtechs are generally cheaper to tune (they are far simpler etc) - $1065 for the computer + $400 for a full matrix tune, or $200 for a load only tune (prices recently quoted by Mazfix, who have masses of experience with these computers - have seen 3 tunes come out of there very recently, all very nice). I'd imagine the cost would be fairly uniform across the board.

pookiesp20: even at 7psi i would recommend forging the engine. Stock internals and relatively high compression have not proven to be overly reliable for turbo setups. a decent boost spike and you *will* break a rod. Remember we run higher compression than the American's, and there are many horror stories about bolt on turbo kits on stock blocks over there.

[Ice88]

I meant the maps on mazdas247 as a base. As theres a few boosted ones

[LordWorm]

Originally Posted by Ice88

I meant the maps on mazdas247 as a base. As theres a few boosted ones

Yeah, never been a fan of those maps.
People get them, think they replace the need to tune. Truth is, no 2 tunes will be exactly alike. Its gunna cost to get a tune done anyway, so bit of a waste of time to put one of those on. I often wonder how many people who have blown motors over there, have blown them because they haven't put a proper tune down.

another possible solution (a common solution in the states) is to run a second bank of fuel injectors, a fuel controller, a couple of voltage clamps (pressure switch activated) and a couple of other neat electronic tricks.

The pressure activated voltage clamps trick the stock computer into thinking its running in open loop, and the fuel controller fires up the second bank of injectors, right when the car hits positive pressure.

That way, you get stock drivability off boost, and don't need to tune any off boost maps, the second bank just supplements the fuel requirements under boost. Only problem with this approach is you are betting on the knock sensor and stock computer to satisfactorily back out timing as boost pressure rises....

but the benefit is a far nicer car to drive (you get stock cold starts, stock temp corrections, stock fuel economy off boost etc), and it only becomes an angry monster when the turbo spools up.

Kooldino on m247 pioneered this approach on the BJ, his car runs it, and pulls over 300hp if memory serves....its a common approach for after market turbo kits and works very well in most instances. Biggest benefit is simplicity i think - and cost. A fuel only controller, which doesn't need to know crank angle etc (unless you want the second bank of injectors to fire sequentially), theres about 1/3 the amount of wiring, and no need to hatchet the stock loom making it easilly reversible if you ever wanted to do it.


Kooldino's shop (speedcircuit) sells just about everything you'll need to do it (modified 626 manifold with additional fuel rail and injectors, voltage clamps, pressure switches and so on) - the fuel controller he uses is a bit US-ecu-specific...but something like a microtech LT4 fuel controller - or even a jaycar diy fuel controller would do the trick!

[Ice88]

I never really understood open loop, closed loop stuff.

And fair enough in regards to tuning just thought it might be a place to start

[Mc_Nuggets]

I managed to get my hands on Microtech LS10 with hand controller 2weeks ago. ($1,300)
I got a free new t28 turbo (Brother got the a wong turbo for his 300zx. My old car :P) so far nuthing has been put in coz i just bought a house and waiting for setelment on the 28th of may + i lost my licance coz i lost my wallet and some cabbie was using it for camra fines (stooge) and QLD transport wont take the points off coz i have know proooff. Hes use it so much i went to court and got denied for Not Guilty. I get it back 14 June 2011 But the astina is just chilling in the garage with my LM V8 soarer. As soon as i get the cash ill fill you guys in wat imgoing to do. Ill never give in and sell my babbys :P

[Sleepy Gonzalez]

I've still got a Mazdspeed protege airconditioning condenser and intercooler piping for sale if anyone needs them for an MSP based kit.