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Old 03-08-2007, 04:05 PM   #1
mcwilly
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bpt vs bpd intake manifold

just wondering wat the difference between the gtx and gtr intake manifolds and plenum are?
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Old 03-08-2007, 04:41 PM   #2
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it was covered in detail on fordlaser.com , sorry I can't find a link
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:13 PM   #3
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http://www.fordlaser.com/viewtopic.php?t=44821

Eveything you'll ever need to know.
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BG Astina + GTR conversion + Microtech ECU + FMIC + 3" pipes and Exhaust x 21psi boost = 12.168 to the power of 326whp
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:27 PM   #4
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so its worth upgrading to one of them?
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:08 PM   #5
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If you can find one and you're going to have a turbo that will flow similar or more than the VJ23...then yeah, it may be worthwile.

There won't be any performance gain in swapping.
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Old 25-08-2007, 08:48 PM   #6
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i was at Jambo today and was told buy a couple of guys that the NA head flows alot better then any of the turbo ones....is this true?
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Old 26-08-2007, 06:39 AM   #7
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the theory is yes, the turbo head has cambers etc that disrupt flow. the n/a head does not.

if i was doing a full turbo rebuild/swap on a n/a car. i'd just fit new pistons, cams, exhaust manifold + turbo and aftermarket ecu. (and piping + FMIC.)

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Old 26-08-2007, 10:06 AM   #8
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At what point are you refering to that it flows better? There is a give and take for every situation.

With a factory BPT head, i made 286hp at the wheels. What the restrictors do is increase the velosity of the air when off boost (simple high pressure/low pressure flow creation), thus ceating more torque. The effect of the restictors are theoretically is cancelled out when the air is forced into the cylinders (ie boost). But that is also to an extent. The mazda engineers never designed the head to flow over pretty much factory boost...so for high power applications, the restrictors may start to do exactly that, and restrict boost pressure flow. As I said though, i was still able to produce 286hp with a factory head at 22psi.

Hopefully next time I'm on the dyno, we'll see my car actually make power, and we'll see if the N/A head does infact flow better at high power applications....but my loss is going to be off boost torque.

Hope that helped.
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Old 26-08-2007, 07:07 PM   #9
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like i said, "the theory is..."
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Old 26-08-2007, 07:11 PM   #10
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there well a dude called Spike who said he knew you Rob ( along with alot of other guys there) said it was definetly worth my while to keep the NA head on the GTX block with GTR internals from corksport and the rest is all up to me really...
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Old 26-08-2007, 07:23 PM   #11
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GTX block is the same as the n/a block.

refer to my post about parts required for rebuild.
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Old 26-08-2007, 07:49 PM   #12
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yeh i know it is but if i buy the half cut i might as well use the GTX block....and swap the GTX head with my NA head...
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Old 26-08-2007, 07:59 PM   #13
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ask yourself a question, if you are using a after market ecu and forged pistons. what are you accually using from a half cut?
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Old 26-08-2007, 08:56 PM   #14
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well i wont have the money to buy a aftermarket ECU so for the time being....plus arent there more things to the GTX then meets the eye....
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Old 26-08-2007, 08:59 PM   #15
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not really

but if you are using the bpt swap as is, then buying a half cut is the better option.
if doing something crazy like what rod currently has, then just turboing a n/a engine is the way to go.

ryan
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Old 26-08-2007, 09:19 PM   #16
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It's worth remembering that although the BP-26 is a good base for performance they are, on average, 15 years old.
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Old 26-08-2007, 09:25 PM   #17
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From someone who has actually done this a couple of times...use as much of the GTX stuff as you can as there are ALOT of little fiddly pain in the arse things to make the turbo swap with an n/a base, more difficult. If you're getting a half cut, use what's in the cut. It's that simple. Expecially because you are going to be running the BP26 ecu. For this reason again, i say to stick with the BP26 head. If you think you're going to bolt on a massive turbo and will be pushing 300hp down the track, then wrap up your N/A head in some thermo wrap and stick it in the corner until you "think" it will be useful. It's not hard to swap a head down the track.

I'm spewin i couldn't be up there for jambo...would have been great to catch up with everyone again. I still would have diagreed with them there too...use the parts for their and your application. Stock ecu = stock setup otherwise your driveability/economy/performance will suffer.
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Old 26-08-2007, 10:58 PM   #18
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You can chip the stock GTX ECU to support higher boost, and then fine tune your AFR with a RRFPR and or Jaycar DFA for cheap but effective results (this works on B6T, need clarification for BPT). This way you won't affect the quality of your daily driving.

Gav.
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Old 28-08-2007, 06:09 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicaboo View Post
You can chip the stock GTX ECU to support higher boost, and then fine tune your AFR with a RRFPR and or Jaycar DFA for cheap but effective results (this works on B6T, need clarification for BPT). This way you won't affect the quality of your daily driving.

Gav.
B6t GTX ecu can be chipped
BPT GTX ecu dont appear to have a "chip"
but, i have seen a few pics of BP26 ecu's that have a huge curcit soldered over the main ecu...so i guess something can be done to them , but i couldnt find any info about it

I run a N/A head, it made a differance uptop in the revs , and that was just with a vf8 turbo, allowed it to pull harder
i did feel its lowdown power drop off
N/a have higher compression anyways, so thats why they dont need the port restrictor in the head

on my next build i'll be runnuing a full p&p head
i just port matched this one thats in the car now
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Old 28-08-2007, 09:59 AM   #20
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Dave: What about those Bee*r chipped BP26 ECUs from Japan? Maybe it's all in the sticker!
That sucks if you BPT guys can't do that, cause I can choose from 15, 16 and 18psi chips for wonderful prices!

Gav.

Last edited by chicaboo; 28-08-2007 at 11:44 AM. Reason: carnt speel
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