Hi all I'm the newest Newbie!

[chicaboo]

When I say dump, I mean the piece immediately off the exhaust housing on the turbo. When I say down pipe, I mean the pipe that drops down (after the dump) from under the sump to the midpipe/cat. Yes you are correct, the dump is 5 bolt to the exhaust housing and 3 bolt to the down pipe. Hover just to further complicate things, the BPT dump is 4 bolt to the down pipe! I have a couple of flanges already made up for that.

Nup, no CS dump for me, I am keeping my AC! So I just used the BPT dump as it's 5 bolt and bolts straight up to my exhaust housing.

Alright, the inlet pipe into the compressor is commonly refered to as the saxophone or J pipe. It's small, but is still 1.75" as per the rest of the system, so I wouldn't get too worried about that until you upgrade. I've actually replaced my saxophone with a straight 2.5" s/s pipe to a 90d sillicone bend to a 2.5">2.25" s/s reducer welded into a flange bolted to the compressor that sits over the 2" inlet of the compressor. This gives a nice gradual step down into the compressor without too many huge ledges. It can be done otherways, but usually involes modding the compressor to have a snout pressor or welded into the end of it.

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

Originally Posted by chicaboo

When I say dump, I mean the piece immediately off the exhaust housing on the turbo. When I say down pipe, I mean the pipe that drops down (after the dump) from under the sump to the midpipe/cat. Yes you are correct, the dump is 5 bolt to the exhaust housing and 3 bolt to the down pipe. Hover just to further complicate things, the BPT dump is 4 bolt to the down pipe! I have a couple of flanges already made up for that.

Nup, no CS dump for me, I am keeping my AC! So I just used the BPT dump as it's 5 bolt and bolts straight up to my exhaust housing.

Alright, the inlet pipe into the compressor is commonly refered to as the saxophone or J pipe. It's small, but is still 1.75" as per the rest of the system, so I wouldn't get too worried about that until you upgrade. I've actually replaced my saxophone with a straight 2.5" s/s pipe to a 90d sillicone bend to a 2.5">2.25" s/s reducer welded into a flange bolted to the compressor that sits over the 2" inlet of the compressor. This gives a nice gradual step down into the compressor without too many huge ledges. It can be done otherways, but usually involes modding the compressor to have a snout pressor or welded into the end of it.

Gav.

2 Q's:

1) Where do I get a BP pipe cause I originally thought you meant the CS one not the orig' Mazda one!

2) Gimme one of your flanges ppllleeeaaasseee!!! Pretty pls, whatta I have to do....aaaarrrgggg?

I'm alright now, composed, yeeeep! So, will you part with the flange already????

P.S. Back to the inlet, is it 1.75" or 2", you mentioned both?

[chicaboo]

1. You just need to find someone nice selling a BPT dump pipe.
2. We will talk about this after you get a BPT dump pipe.

All the VJ14 inlets and outlets are 1.75". The VF10 that I have is 2" inlet and outlet on the compressor/turbine, but I expand them out to 2.5" with reducers. And the BPT dump has a 2.25" outlet to the down pipe.

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

cooooooool!

Well!!!!! Is it worth keeping the VJ14 in your opinion? Or should I go the VF10 (I'm presuming you use complete VF10 Turbo & ditch the VJ14?)

[chicaboo]

The VF10 makes 30% more power or something, so I'd say it's worth it. You slide the VF10 into the exhaust housing from the VJ14. You will need to loosen the VF10's compressor and rotate it to point where you want it to. I have mine pointing straight up like the old VJ14 did, so I use a stock looking arangement for my IC setup. You need to redrill your wastegate bracket when you rotate the VF10 so it still points to the gate flap.

Just run your VJ14 at 16psi and kill it the fun way before you worry about upgrading your turbo. And by the time you've done that you might want an eBay manifold with v-band turbo and external wastegate so you can keep your AC.

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

woow, woow, woooooow.......there you go again, it's a sin you know to tempt people beyond their breaking point,,,,,,,ah damn! What the hell!

There goes those plans (can you hear the paper being crumbled & hitting the side of the bin???)

So, if you keep the original VJ14 housing, doesn't that mean you still have the problematic sharp curve to the dump pipe? or is this OK? Is this where the custom flange you spoke of comes in? for the BPT down pipe? (which your gonna sell me)

Uh Hum! what is this EBay luvly thing you now speak of? Why would you consider this, because it handles gases better?

Hold the phone!.....why wouldn't you want the exhaust side opened up? Is that because you'll compromise low-end performance?

BTW, VJ14 is pumping out 10 pounds @ moment in every gear, that's all. I'll tweak boost controller to 12 (this apparently is it's limit?)

[chicaboo]

Here is a pic of the cast and spaghetti manifolds below. Their flanges face upward and forward slightly, so the turbo would sit closer to the bonnet, giving you the height you need to run a custom dump pipe out and dodge the AC. Although the offset on the flange going to the right isn't the best...

Don't let me tempt you on a full upgrade, as there is a lot you can do to get some performance out of your stock VJ14 while keeping your AC. You can MBC it to 11psi (boost cut comes on at 12psi), do the BPT dump pipe with the square shoulders (didn't you say had a custom dump already?), and also adding a dual pass intercooler (pipes are both on the same side) behind the front bumper. If you are going to run more boost, I reckon 2" IC piping would be great for getting the most out of your system too. I have a chipped ECU that has boost and fuel maps up to 18psi, so that's something else you could look at.

Open up the exhaust side? Do you mean using the bigger 15R or 20R housings? I think they would be too much stuffing around unless you already had one. However if you got a dead VJ20 with dump and all, you would have all the goodies you need, just elongate the holes to make it fit. But I would only do that to a VF10/12 hybrid, not to a VJ14...

[NaughtyGT]

oooooooooh I luvs!

looks tuned-length to me (sorry, old-school slang)

What I meant when I said "Open up the exhaust side" was do you use only the compressor of the VF10 & couple it to the VJ14 exhaust? If so, aren't you still restricted with the hotside? What I mean is: the Hybrid will increase inlet right, but the exhaust will remain stock? Sorry if I sound Turbo dumb, why couldn't you use the whole VF10? Why use only the cold end? Is it best to make hybrid?

Told you I was dumb!

Been away from Turbos tooooo long!

[chicaboo]

Number 1 looks pretty short compared to the others, so I would say they aren't tuned length, but I don't think it matters a rats either.

Oh, that sort of open up... You just swap over the entire VF10 turbine/compressor into the VJ14 exhaust housing. The inducer wheel on the VF10 turbine is still only the same size diameter as the VJ14, but the blade pitch might be different? Anyhow, you get more effort off the VF10 compressor for the same exhaust flow as compared to the VJ14. When hybriding you need to port out the wastegate a bit too. I think mine went from 14mm to 21~23mm diameter when it was ported. Apparently the VF10 spikes badly if you don't do that. But if you go too big with the porting, you get too much pressure against the gate, and it creeps open causing your boost to drop off. That's supposedly not a problem if you use the stock VJ14 gate flap (like I did).

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

It's certainly alot for me to take in, food for thought....I just want to make this lil beasty go for all it's worth!

[chicaboo]

Originally Posted by NaughtylilGT

I just want to make this lil beasty go for all it's worth!

Oh you do eh?

Well, I've been talking to the cam guy down south a bit more, and it seems he can grind my spare cams and shim up my new HLAs to suit the reduced base circle at least. I'm waiting to hear back how much he can do this for. And it's not like he can rip me off as I know what shims and grind cams is worth closer to home. But he is convenient if he can sort out the shimming straight up, which is the pain in the butt part of the process. This is the mod I've really been wanting to do to the car since starting to restore it.

Anyhow, I have some pie in the sky things down the track I want to do, like 90mm stroker crank and seriously overbored pistons from a place in the US that seems to be spot on the money. My stock B6T rods are epiqué, so I will just re-use them as the wrist pins will be raised in these pistons. If I can get to 81mm bore safely, I will be looking 1855cc with a VF10 and agressive cams. All this with a microtech or other less gay engine management should have me staring down the barrel of over 180kW ATW. The VF10 is going to be limiting me though. So if it dies (and I will dam try to kill it), I will then upgrade to a GT2871 with external wastegate, etc. That should get me over 200kW ATW. Well, that's a long time away, and a lot can go wrong in the mean time, so I'm just taking it one step at a time (very small steps at that!).

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

1 small step for man.........1 giant leap for Mazdakind

When doing the VF10 upgrade, do you need the ECU chipped @ that stage or will it run with the B6 stock ECU?

[chicaboo]

Originally Posted by NaughtylilGT

1 small step for man.........1 giant leap for Mazdakind

When doing the VF10 upgrade, do you need the ECU chipped @ that stage or will it run with the B6 stock ECU?

You can run the VF10 with the stock ECU up to 10-11psi (boost cut at 12psi). If you chip the stock ECU, you can go to 16psi, but anything over is just blowing hot air apparently. I will be running 10-12psi daily with 16-18psi on scramble boost.

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

well then Gav,

It's RWC on Tuesday then,
$$$ together for the first mods:
a) source BPT pipe, VF10, Spaghetti Manifold, CS IC, then I'll relook @ it all again from there!

oh deah! Knew I'd be doing more than anticipated!

Oh yeah, I found set of nice 16" shoes from a Swift GTi in SA. They're being sent tomorrow so, the mods will be a little while ahead before I start. The wheels were needed for RWC next week so, they were the priority for now

[chicaboo]

There's no point getting the spaghetti manifold if you're doing a VJ14/VF10 hybrid. In that case you can just keep your stock manifold and keep all your heat shields. Remember to source the heatshield for the BPT dump if you get one. The spaghetti manifold is choice for a phat GT2560 or such. The BPT dump with VF10 hybrid is a cheap easy power upgrade. The spaghetti manifold on it's own will cost as much as all the other stuff combined. Fosgate can help source you a VF10, perhaps even prehybrided and ported.

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

Originally Posted by chicaboo

There's no point getting the spaghetti manifold if you're doing a VJ14/VF10 hybrid. In that case you can just keep your stock manifold and keep all your heat shields. Remember to source the heatshield for the BPT dump if you get one. The spaghetti manifold is choice for a phat GT2560 or such. The BPT dump with VF10 hybrid is a cheap easy power upgrade. The spaghetti manifold on it's own will cost as much as all the other stuff combined. Fosgate can help source you a VF10, perhaps even prehybrided and ported.

Gav.

Tar! Will get onto it soon as I get home this arvo, I'm off & Thanks again!

[chicaboo]

Gee, you're really keen! Lucky I haven't told you about the sik intake mods you can do with the JDM intake runners converted to a large side-feed plenum with upgraded TB, etc...

Gav.

[NaughtyGT]

you know, that's not playin' fair

[NaughtyGT]

Just noticed the BG GTR for sale in NSW gobsmacked gobsmacked gobsmacked gobsmacked
still gobsmacked
still gobsmacked
......it aint easin'!!!!!

[chicaboo]

I won't support you if you defile your car with a GTR motor...

Spank them with a B6T, it hurts them more!
Gav.