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#1 |
AstinaGT Regular
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HOW TO: DIY 2 pot brake upgrade
Old Busted!
![]() New Hotness! ![]() ![]() This ONLY applies 4 stud BG or BA models, GTR/GTX BG unknown, BA V6 will need some playing with different rotor sizes ![]() So far i have found two options for this upgrade one requires cutting of stuff the other is bolt on first the parts for option 1 ( No cutting of stuff) BA V6 hubs complete BG 4 cly 4 stud wheel bearings and 4 stud centers x 2 Rotors; Your choice of either Slotted/drilled BG GTX/ Astina GT rotors or NB8 MX5/Miata rotors (270mm), * Pads overlap 1mm when using stock 257mm rotors Calipers; BJ series wagon Subaru Legacy GT turbo (2pot) Brake brackets; Mazda GD 626/TX5/Probe Washers of 2-3mm , Cyl head bolt washers work well (i'll explain later) Brake pads; as above, but use some Bendix DB1114 or something better than OEM Brake lines; your choice of either OEM/Braided etc for BG models * Careful, there are two types ive found, a large and a small Neck Banjo head, i tested using the a split small neck type, all ok, but my car was fitted with a large neck banjo bolt. Large neck requires filling down part of the caliper, 5 mins extra First Push out the V6 5 stud Center, push in the 4 stud center Paint/bling up the calipers from the Subi/Mazda combo Take note of the numbers on the caliper " AD602T " this may have changed during the Subi models, but you need the one with 1 bolt , not 2 ![]() ![]() the orange brings out the color in my eyes :P , best of all NO cutting :P , just bolt it to the V6 hubs, put 2-3mm thick washers between HUb and caliper to be on the safe side, ie DONT TEST FIT using 21mm Rotors when you have 22mm, kinda confuses you when you see 4mm clear on side yet only 1.5 on the other removal of old setup from ya car, Fit new rotors, , put the good heat/copper grease on moving parts and bolt together with new pads check steering arm lengths are ok, bleed them brakes, run/ bed pads in ,, DONE Option two (cutting, swearing, beer/bourbons, & time) <-- i No longer recommend this unless you enjoy trial and error.. **** IT Parts for Option 2 BA V6 hubs complete BG 4 cly 4 stud wheel bearings and 4 stud centers x 2 Rotors; Your choice of either Slotted/drilled BG GTX/ Astina GT rotors or NB8 MX5/Miata rotors (270mm) Calipers; T series Mazda Millenia/Xedos 9 S/C or 2.5 V6 (2pot) Brake brackets; As above Brake pads; as above, but use some Bendix DB1326 or something better than OEM Brake lines; your choice of either OEM or Braided etc for BG models *work fine with either small or big neck banjo heads Take note of the caliper cast numbers "AD43T" and 2 bolt arrangement ![]() ![]() You need to cut back this much off the caliper bracket, tiny amounts off the hubs, casting line was in my way on 1 hub, other was ok * The bracket side facing the Wheels needs to be "trimmed" if it hits your wheels...my 14" OEM mazda mags clear it..yet my Enkai stuff hits the bracket, needs a good 2-3mm trimmed off it ...<--reason i gave up for the night ![]() The bolt holes in the V6 hub needs to be drilled out 2mm to fit the millenia bolts, 14mm i think? i didnt do that bit ![]() the dust sheild? also needs a tiny amount chopped off, 2mm as it hits the corner of the bracket Strangely but there is NO overlap on the Millenia pad when using stock Astina GT rotors??? ![]() Passes the 14" wheel test, i started to laugh when this fitted ![]() drop new pads in Fit new rotors, and bolt together removal of old setup from ya car, Bolt in the above setup, check steering arm lengths are ok, bleed them brakes, run/ bed pads in ,, DONE[/b]
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1996 ST205 Toyota Celica GT4 *Gone* 1991 Astina GT, 102wkw/138whp Built a KL-ZE 220whp engine for a KF Laser Last edited by dave0r; 28-12-2007 at 08:11 PM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: n/a
Car: n/a
Posts: 10,929
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Which pads fit in this combo?
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#3 |
AstinaGT Regular
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re-read it again
the pad you use is based off option 1 or 2
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1996 ST205 Toyota Celica GT4 *Gone* 1991 Astina GT, 102wkw/138whp Built a KL-ZE 220whp engine for a KF Laser |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: n/a
Car: n/a
Posts: 10,929
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well for someone that doesn'y own a car with DB1114 or DB1326, what do they look like?
or are they just the 2nd and 3rd pads in the 1st pic? |
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#5 |
AstinaGT Regular
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1996 ST205 Toyota Celica GT4 *Gone* 1991 Astina GT, 102wkw/138whp Built a KL-ZE 220whp engine for a KF Laser |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Brisbane's West
Car: Familia/Astina GTX
Posts: 949
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aaaaaaaaaaaaw, how do these go ? they look really beefy and look like would stop the rotation of the earth!
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Eastwood, Sydney
Car: 1989 Nissan Silvia CA18DET
Posts: 583
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skimmed over that quickly cause its late.. but got an approximate price on either of the methods? no exact numbers, just a ballpark?
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#8 |
AstinaGT Regular
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its still a work in progress
they are fitted to the car..and stop the car nicely i need to get new rotors and pads (only test at this stage) pedal feels a little spoungy , prolly got air bubble still price all in NZ $$$ Hubs $40 each Calipers $40 each Brackets $10 each Pads $ take ya pick. new from Repco in NZ $88 Rotors $ take ya pick new from repco $130 each labour, i was charged $50 to push out the bearings and drill the hubs to fit the larger bolts , but thats not required in option 1 misc,...brake fuild, new lines, paint, cleaner etc...all adds up
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1996 ST205 Toyota Celica GT4 *Gone* 1991 Astina GT, 102wkw/138whp Built a KL-ZE 220whp engine for a KF Laser |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brisbane
Car: Red '93 3000GT / Black '08 Ninja 250R
Posts: 2,930
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wow thats really good, especially as its for the 4 stud astina's and everything i've read is for 5 stud. would love to see a setup like this first hand.
out of interest, why did you only paint the outside edges of the caliper?
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT |
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: n/a
Car: n/a
Posts: 10,929
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#11 |
AstinaGT Regular
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yup sure did
![]() that bolt took ages to undo... its as tight as i can get it now ,whole car moved when using massive leaver bar
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1996 ST205 Toyota Celica GT4 *Gone* 1991 Astina GT, 102wkw/138whp Built a KL-ZE 220whp engine for a KF Laser |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: tullamarine,melbourne
Car: 92 astina 323 bg & 01 SP20
Posts: 660
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hey i was just wondering on this mod, you can use the the pot breaks from a BG familia 323 right? coz thats also a gtx
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#13 | |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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Quote:
i have an update to do to this thread.. too will post up in the next coming weeks ![]()
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wollongong
Car: 95' Mazda BA 323
Posts: 747
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Hurry up and do it
![]() I want to do a brake upgrade and i need it before i get the car back on the road but i dont want to go to v6 hubs, ![]()
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Too many Mazdas. ♡ |
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