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Old 08-11-2007, 11:15 PM   #1
zappy65
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GTX Plans and Opinions...

Here's a list:
All New Coolant Pipes
All New Fluids
New Thermostat
New Gaskets (Head, Valve Cover etc)
All New Belts
FMIC
BOV (possibly plumb back)
MBC (Manual Boost Controller)
All Piping for IC and Acc.
(I already have a new radiator and theromfan so cooling is covered)
Engine Management (Not Yet Decided)
Deletion Of AirCon (Still Debating with the Missus...lol)
New Engine Mounts

BLOCK:
Wiseco Forged Pistons and Rings (still debating standard or 20 thou)
B6T Con Rods
ACL Bearings
BPT Crankshaft
MazdaSpeed Oil Pump
All Cryogenically frozen

HEAD: (this is where i need opinions)
APR Head Studs
BPT Head
BP na Inlet Manifold (too be decided whether BPT or NA one is better)
Minor Port & Polish

GEARBOX:
G series GearBox
Mazdaspeed LSD (or equivalant)
3rd cut straight gear
All Cryogenically Frozen (inc. Bellhousing etc)
HD Clutch

TURBO:
(Something Hybrid but havent decided)

FUEL MANAGEMENT:
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Bosch Injectors (Need to learn more about his Possibly other brands)
FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

I've promised myself that the engine would not sit in the engine bay until its complete, if that means saving for various parts, so be it, its getting done ,1st time properly,
So the Q is what to do with the head??? How do cam profiles interact with turbo engines, should i put in stronger valve springs and retainers, are hydraulic lifters good enough?
in the end i want about 150kw atw...i want more response then top speed
What do you guys reckon this will gain in KW?
I have the block figured out but as for fuel, andthe head i need some KNOWN opinion, no guessing, this is positive research and WILL be used...
I want opinions, terrible knock backs and recommendations...

Chers in advance..John
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Last edited by zappy65; 09-11-2007 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 09-11-2007, 01:21 AM   #2
DavoAust
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i want to see your little beasty finished chica, it'll be a quick little bugger. are you waiting to get your license? or saving the cash to finish it up?

zappy won't you need a fuel pressure regulator? might want a beefier clutch too
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Last edited by DavoAust; 09-11-2007 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 09-11-2007, 01:35 AM   #3
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I have everything here to finish it except intercooler piping, which I need to measure and order after I modify the VJ14 actuator so the VF10 hybrid actually fits on the car without hitting the block. It's just finding the time (and strength these days) to get it all done. This weekend I am fixing the bumper and extension on the SP18 no matter what!

Eventually next year the TX3 will get repainted after the SP18 is sold. I'm hoping it will be a very nice example of a slightly modified stock car then. Unfortunately things will still be finished in dribs and drabs over the coming months. ie: IC>TB custom piping, PBV, chipped ECU+JayCar DFA, cams, valve cover mod, partial interior retrim, etc...

Gav.
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:25 AM   #4
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is this chicaboo's thread or zappys?

looks good zappy. i'd start saving though as that is a pretty extensive rebuild.
have you considered just getting a GTR motor?
where do you plan on getting the box stuff cyro treated?
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:24 AM   #5
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It all sounds good. I would strongly suggest a plumb-boack BOV so you're street legal. Even if you end up running an atmo BOV with the provision to revert to plumb back when needed.

I'm a little intrigued by the idea of cryo'ing the gearbox housing. I would not have thought that would make as much difference as the beefing up of endplates etc that most people seem to do?

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Old 09-11-2007, 10:28 AM   #6
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With cryogenic treatment: Since the end result is stronger yet more brittle metal. Wouldn't you still need to do soft gear changes, or even more so? Yet I do see the advantage of the stronger gears under rising boost/accelleration. Thought I would ask as I have a spare box I can do stuff too aswell...

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Old 09-11-2007, 12:50 PM   #7
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it should only become brittle if it's warmed up too quickly.... you can safely heat treat metal without causing bittleness

by the way, if you want to stay in the IHI turbos, VF34 all the way!
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newman View Post
by the way, if you want to stay in the IHI turbos, VF34 all the way!
Custom header and dump? Does zappy want the higher cost of the VF34 and all the extras that need to be done due to make it work? Hello 200kW ATW though...!

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Old 09-11-2007, 12:57 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by chicaboo View Post
Custom header and dump? Does zappy want the higher cost of the VF34 and all the extras that need to be done due to make it work? Hello 200kW ATW though...!

Gav.
he's going all out on everything else, why wouldn't you go all out on the turbo then?

a vf34 turbo setup with custom manifold and new oil/water lines will cost less than the treatment he is planning on giving to the gearbox alone
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newman View Post
he's going all out on everything else, why wouldn't you go all out on the turbo then?

a vf34 turbo setup with custom manifold and new oil/water lines will cost less than the treatment he is planning on giving to the gearbox alone
Yeah, I think Zappy needs to revisit the 150kW ATW thing if he is going to do all that work hey... Don't forget how much engine management is going to add to your project too!

Oh, my oil and coolant lines/fittings for the VF10 are only going to cost me $100 at most from Pirtech.

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Old 09-11-2007, 01:23 PM   #11
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i say go for it dude...its building blocks...you gotta start from somewhere...make her strong...then do the bigger turbos...i say dont run too high boost..i reckon 14psi... that way you have an efficent engine
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:56 PM   #12
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OK, firstly thanks for the help with chicaboo's TX...hahahaha..JKS
Um, yeah bigger turbo, no thanks, VF10 should give me the RESPONSE!!! that i want, i dont want 200kw, i want bloody quick off the line, put your foot down and instant crazy...as for cryogenics, its a phase that i have red on ALOT, i know it makes the metal a bit more briitle but the positives out way the negatives, there is a place on the Northside of Brisbane because theres a guy at work who does Rally and got his whole engine frozen there...all the manual work is going to be done by me at work,alot of my mates from work have pitched in to save me some $ too, the mastertech at work is porting and polishing the head, i save money getting the bore widened at UMR because of trade price and i have all the tools and torque info at my fingertips, Hey Dave, thanks for the FPR note, but HD clutch is on the list...As for people who knock response, tell me who they are and ill beat em' up Gavsta!
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Last edited by zappy65; 09-11-2007 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:01 PM   #13
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oops must have missed the clutch somehow. sounds like you're gonna have one kick ass engine soon. now you just need to finish painting/cutting the beasty
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:14 PM   #14
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:20 PM   #15
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yeah painting is being completed in my 2 week holiday in January I HOPE!!!! i have all the ****, just waiting for time off...And those gears need to be defrosted...hehehe
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Old 09-11-2007, 09:00 PM   #16
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Geeze Johnny...

I cant wait to see this bastard child..
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Old 09-11-2007, 09:03 PM   #17
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Lol, always full of crazy saying, one of the only people to make me laugh these days...oh yeah tina, got your copper hose kit and T piece for the gauge....
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Old 10-11-2007, 07:01 AM   #18
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Mr Johnny - I have a whole G series box here you can have in 1,000 parts, (spider gears gone in diff,) if you like for yourself. It's just sitting in the garage collecting dust.

Ryan
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Old 10-11-2007, 08:03 AM   #19
zappy65
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is it broken in a thousand parts or is it all useful stuff? how much???
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Old 10-11-2007, 08:19 AM   #20
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Read the whole post again mate. But i'll break it down for you okay:-

Mr Johnny = you
in 1,000 parts, (spider gears gone in diff,) = parted but all ok except diff
if you like for yourself. = $0 (maybe $20 if you feel like it)
It's just sitting in the garage collecting dust. = needs to go
Ryan = me

lol

Ryan
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