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Old 07-07-2009, 09:15 PM   #1
phildough
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FP-DE to FS-ZE swap in a 2002 BJ II J48 Astina

As my 1.8 motor has a weird problem that the oil light comes on when the car is warm and idling at the lights. And it has been tested to have low oil pressure at idle.
It does use a little oil, maybe a litre per 5000km? other than that its fine, it still puts out 78 kw at the wheels
I have spoken to countless mechanics and its been to 3 Mazda dealers
(1 was cheeky enough to hold me to ransom for $250 only to tell me you have a flashing light on your dash and we don't know why.)

Its been doing this for about 3 years now and no one can tell me why and im getting sick of the light on the dash.
So how i'm thinking of fixing it is by importing a FS-ZE out of a Japanese Familia Sport 20 which is approx 120-125 KW from what I have read and putting it in my car.
But they only come in gay auto flavours there so I will have to try to bolt it to my freshly replaced f-series gearbox if it will fit.
Oh and replace the ECU with a new one coz our gay oz spec ECU is too retarded to let us have the full potential of our cars let alone a FS-ZE
This is a project that I haven't seen anyone else on here do yet? Or is there a reason why?
Does anyone know if my idea is possible? legal? easy? or just not worth the end result?
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:23 PM   #2
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hmmmm.. i dont know if it would be worthwhile or not. i know if your looking for power everyone says to turbo the engine thats in there, not to convert to the 2.0... but if your engine is crapped itself, it might be best to upgrade it.
depends also if you plan on modding the 2.0?
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:34 PM   #3
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Well im not after a huge power gain, i think 125 kw + would be nice enough
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:06 PM   #4
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It's not worth it on a car your better off selling and buying one that does the job your after.

If you wanted more power you should buy one stock with enough, all engine swaps and conversion are only worth it to a person who can do it them self - had major parts - engine gearbox - car all handy EG free or cheaper. They never work out at a good price.

I know of someone who bought a Lexus Gs300 tryed to sell it too me - he boguht it for $7000 auction price - damaged -boguht a tiwn turbo aristo front cut for it. tryed to swap it over all up done damage- $15000 yet he tryed selling it - worth about $25,000 in poor earl S1 condition to $60K for late S2 models.
It was S2 but the engine and auto didn't work right and it was not executed right. If he put in stock 2JZ local etc it would have made him $7K.

A 323 is right now end of it's peck selling ability - Eg it's now on the steepest down hill. So any money put into it is being pissed away.

So plan to keep it or trade up.

Sounds to me as if you have short in the wiring. If thewy have changed sensors - andi t's right it's wiring the oil sensors are not sensitve - the have biasc switch desgin, they don't jsut flash on and off.

I've seen it before on lancers corrollas - most cases engine has oil pressure.

it's normally just a re earth the cluster - or run a new oil light wire to the dash. I'd fix that sell it and buy wh suits you.

a Fs-Ze- unless you get it for $800- any more is too much.
it's all up on road getting it legal cost approx min $5K. because you will replace alot of bits and no one will make you run it with out SP20 brakes and they will be quickest way to legal. but again Not worth it.

go buy a Sp20 - or Sp23 even.

I've done heaps of conversion they never end. But I don't start with no budget
I budget double and blow double on top. Allways been that way. But I'm perfectionist. EG I want to jump my car off speed humps and not care.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:42 AM   #5
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indeed

easy option of fitting a AUDM FS-DE is only 6kW power again is not worth the changeover. best to sell the 1.8 and buy a 2.0 car.

harder option is the JDM FS-ZE is 125kW. but that'll be even more $$$ importing it again and getting the extra ecu controls fitted.

Last edited by project.r.racing; 08-07-2009 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:57 PM   #6
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At a glance it looks simple, but...

See an engineer about legality-ADRs, emmissions etc, eg FP has no EGR, FS does, FS-ZE does not? Compatibility of PCM(including immobilser, keys, ABS, EBD etc), bell housing, mounting brackets, on and on...

One possible plus though, I used to wonder why I never got a CEL BJ 1.8, then looked behind the panel and found there isn't one fitted!
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:02 PM   #7
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MMM it does sound like a mission. And everyone seems to say nooo don't do it.
Im going to have to either rebuild my existing motor or replace it soon anyway,
I had allready thought of a SP20 motor all ready and the few KW wouldn't be worth it - gearbox.. drive shafts... mounts.. new wheels.
I was thinking of a good after market ECU for the engine and having to keep the existing ecu for the dash etc for a few extra kw.
I didn't think it would be that massive of a job as the engine comes out of the same car.
But if you all think no don't do it.
I'll just buy a real sports car instead
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:15 PM   #8
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hey phil,

have you ever considered the problem to be a dash cluster fault?
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Old 08-07-2009, 09:47 PM   #9
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There's a damaged SP20 on eBay for about $3k - it'd give you everything you need
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Old 08-07-2009, 10:46 PM   #10
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Yes that is right rupe it's the best way to do it.

but if it's damaged - question how far - damaged.

I've seen recently some damaged R33's -
retailing what about $8K auction (tha'tys sales auction trade in's etc)
So about $12-14K market or less.

I worked out - to buy 2 damaged R33's - repaired shop in shop out and sell I would only make once done include my time on it about $2K

it's not worth it.

$3K for if you can repair it using your current cars parts it's worth it. Because you get a Sp20.

Conversion = no market value.

I've been down it so many times, and conversion where brakes - stud pattern - are different = engineer problem straight up. It won't pass, without it.
As we know you need the G-series Gearbox to come along. driveshafts the list goes on and on.

Repairing the Sp20 now that hmm sounds more interesitng the longer you look into it.

In fact I'm looking into it right now.
finding blown engine SP20 - now that makes it worth droping a FS-ZE into it.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcs_sp20 View Post
hey phil,

have you ever considered the problem to be a dash cluster fault?

I have had the oil pressure tested 3 times and it drops below 20psi at idle (just low enough to set the sensor off supposedly), and about 10 psi down every where else.
I have replaced the sensor and tested the wiring.
Im gonna buy a oil pressure guage to test it more.
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:41 AM   #12
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What typically causes low oil pressure? And if it makes any difference, I don't recall your engine being smokey on the dyno last month.

Gav.
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:15 PM   #13
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buy a black permanent texta. and draw a little circle over the light on the custer cover. voila! no more light!
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicaboo View Post
What typically causes low oil pressure? And if it makes any difference, I don't recall your engine being smokey on the dyno last month.

Gav.
It doesn't blow smoke, it just tried its hardest to make a whole 77.9KW.
I somehow remember Marc's SP20 trying to smoke us out though.

Quote:
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buy a black permanent texta. and draw a little circle over the light on the custer cover. voila! no more light!
Have thought of that, or I could just remove the bulb like I did on my 1991 Familia GT when the ABS failed. That would work just as well.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:48 PM   #15
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It doesn't blow smoke, it just tried its hardest to make a whole 77.9KW.
I somehow remember Marc's SP20 trying to smoke us out though.
LOL, that was only at 4500rpm
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:25 PM   #16
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his engine sounds good

engine oil pressure switch is like well - a minimal it has setting and all it does is say pressure.

in fact even if you pump is totally worn out you won't get it. sometimes if some people have too thick oil it will take time to click it off.

but I think it's normal mitsubishi problem I've seen it on many lancers- just earthing on the cluster or wiring harness damage.

problem is - it is a **** job to trouble shoot and fix. A smart merchanic will remove cam cover - and check oil flow even remove a cam shaft cap. once he confirms oil - he knows it's electrical.

but like I say - not uncommon for some to say it's too hard etc.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:43 PM   #17
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Ok to describe the light more. It takes about 5-10 sec for it to go away on a cold start then once the car is up to temp the light comes on after about 15 sec of idling at the lights, it stays on until the car is revved or i take off.
Removing the oil cap while its running u can see oil but not a hell of a lot of it.
I have checked the wiring, and replaced and had the sensor tested in car with a multimeter. I have also had the sensor and the pressure tested with a gauge.
And thats when they all confirmed the fault. Low oil pressure. No reason given.
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:38 AM   #18
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Are you using a standard size oil filter?

Gav.
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Are you using a standard size oil filter?

Gav.
Yes, im using a standard size oil filter.
Any other suggestions?
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:48 PM   #20
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what oil viscosity are you using??
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