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Old 10-07-2009, 06:50 PM   #21
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Those symptoms usually mean that the big end/main bearings have excessive clearance
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:47 PM   #22
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what oil viscosity are you using??
I have tried many different oil types, from Mobil 1 0-40? to Penrite 20-60, it still does it what ever oil is in the car.
The car had Mobil 1 used in it for the first 60,000 km
Im gonna change the oil again on sat.
Any suggestions on what brand / type to try next to see if it goes away.
And probably fix the light by removing the sensor and installing an after market oil pressure guage.
Any ideas where to get a good quality one cheap.
Prefer electronic as installing it should be easier.
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:51 PM   #23
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I dunno what other guys run, but I have been running Castrol GTX3 since I bought the car...

Speco gauges are nice & cheap with some quality, just unsure if they make an electronic model tho..
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:59 PM   #24
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Do you know the cheapest place to get them?
I will prob have to mount it in the space above my head deck, I dont wanna cut the dash or have it on the a pillar
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:05 PM   #25
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I have just installed an Autometer electronic oil pressure gauge and when the car is warm it drops to about 10-15 psi at idle.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:45 PM   #26
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about 35psi off then - pull the globe sell the car, trade it in claim from now on you never ever knew it was pulled. eside if you trade it in becomes there problem.

fixing this or even doing a engine swap is wasting your money.

Not trying to be rude just saving you money and your life savings being wasted be cars.

But you have taken this long to fix this issue - get it confirmed by yourself.

Your no cut out for engine swap/ ownership.

Cut your loss and get a new car.

I recoomned a toyota corolla if oyu want more sport get a sportivo - ****s all over a SP20 in terms of power but loses out being a corolla.
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:20 PM   #27
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I recoomned a toyota corolla if oyu want more sport get a sportivo - ****s all over a SP20 in terms of power but loses out being a corolla.
Do you have to rub it in like that?
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:23 PM   #28
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BJ Astina = granny car
Sportivo = granny car w/ lift yo
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:23 PM   #29
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Do you have to rub it in like that?
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BJ Astina = granny car
Sportivo = granny car w/ lift yo
LMAO!!
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:24 PM   #30
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Modded SP20 = Sportivo small cam!
Hey Marc?
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:26 PM   #31
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Woulda been more with VICS
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:31 PM   #32
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I dont want to be another statistic from falling asleep behind the wheels.
I traded a 1985 Corolla Seca in on my car when I bought it new.
Therefore im not buying another corolla.
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Old 13-07-2009, 06:41 PM   #33
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Ok more on the oil pressure. When its cold the oil is over 100 psi at about 2500 RPM+ and about 25-40 psi at idle. As the car warms up you can see the pressure slowly decreasing to about 40-60 psi at about 50-60 km/hr from about 70-100 when cold.
The oil pressure when hot and at idle can drop to about 15? PSI( its hard to be exact the gauge is that small) It takes about 15 -30 seconds for the oil pressure to drop when you stop at the lights. It climbs back up if you hold the revs at 1500 rpm after about 5 sec.
This says to me that the motor is shagged, I have known this for years,
but as every mechanic thats looked at has said something similar. Just keep driving it till its broken.
No one knows where its broken and the cost of finding that faulty bearing or seal just doesn't justify the time and money. Thats why I was thinking of a new engine. I have a mechanic mate that wants to do the engine swap for me. He just wanted an idea of what parts etc I need to do the swap.
But everyone here is so against me doing it that it looks like I will just chuck another FP-DE in my car and keep driving it as it is.
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Old 13-07-2009, 10:11 PM   #34
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it's the pressure releif valve on the oil pump at idel it closes off to keep pressure approx 50psi is it' aim.

when goign hard with revs it will go up and then should get into a level.

what fails ? well it depends anything from spring tension to what I've seen alot on euro cars with poor oil changes the ball is sludged up.

if this was Rb30 or even 13b it's fark all job to change or replace compelte pump.

but I'm not sure on the latter F-sereis engine, on earlier engines it's easy enought but it's a pain and built into the oil pump.

on some engines - you can pull a plug out - remove the spring and use a magnet to remove the ball and reset all drain oil etc. I've done itto moslty RWD engines - only to find it's the wiring - or sender unit. on some euro's it's worse it's the passages are blocked so good old deisel trick is used.



Oh as for Corolla comments - hey they are borring as ****.

and VTEC and VVTI well it's great on 2JZ. but hell anything below 2L is a waste of time IMO - in fact anything with injectors smaller then 300cc is waste.
I like to burn fuel, but I still think it's great marvvel take a engine from the celica and drop it into the Rolla.

they still suck being a trailing beam rear end car, but lets be ohnest Sp23 is fun but can you afford one. I could of - but I've noted before anything with too much electronics in it is waste of time for me. even ABS i'don't like much.


I still think it's time to go. because if your looking for more - it's not the right move.

but if you did a engine swap think SP23 engine and 6speed. That is decent conversion to try.
With most conversion try to take the easiest and most parts available to you option.
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Old 13-07-2009, 10:23 PM   #35
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Oh as for Corolla comments - hey they are borring as ****.
Aesthetically yes, but as an FC RX7 blowing flames once found out, they can still be exciting in other ways.
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Old 13-07-2009, 10:24 PM   #36
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too bad they cant break traction
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Old 14-07-2009, 09:40 PM   #37
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too bad they cant break traction
yeah but they just don't break.

I won't be seen dead in a toyota but I'll drive the best one LEXUS.

see even a die hard mazda museum building freak like me, can appreiciate a toyota.

of course - a lexus V corolla or camry is like - sex vs - your hand - it's no competition

but end of the day, all my mazda's are rebuilt and still be rebuilt. Dam lexus can't be broken.
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Old 17-07-2009, 01:01 PM   #38
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Hey, I never said don't do it, just that it is probably difficult, expensive and possibly not legal. I'd love to see it legally done in QLD so I can keep dreaming of doing it myself(yes, a wild, stupid, unrealistic and pointless dream). I can barely afford decent tyres though...

And I hope not to get your engine from a wrecker when mine dies! (193,000km sofar with occaisional light smoke launchning from lights).
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Old 17-07-2009, 07:16 PM   #39
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Why / how would be illegal to use a FS-ZE. The motor was fitted to the same car in japan. Its the same block as a SP 20, just a different head etc...
I originally thought I would just bolt it to my F series gear box and use a new aftermarket ECU and upgrade my discs & pad to cope.
Ohh and replace the suspension next year.
Ohh and BTW my car just ticked over 89,000 km.
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Old 20-07-2009, 03:30 PM   #40
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Sorry, I was thinking of KL-ZE, but anyway, the FS-ZE has different camshafts and higher compression ratio, so ADR emmisions compliance could be an issue. Check with an engineer. If it's legal, then some of us might end up with FS-ZE swaps come rebuild time!

I read about an FS mated to a F25MR box ok when the owner found forged FS rods wouldn't fit his FP block.

If you want to replace struts and springs, the BC coilover kit is working well for me.

Bit sad having this trouble at so low kms
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