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Old 31-03-2011, 12:50 PM   #101
Ice88
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It must be retarding the timing a heap to avoid problems id dink. Why not use the FP ECU for everything but engine management and get a microtech or haltech or whatever really to do engine management? Would benefit accross the range and if the fuel maps anything like the stock one youd pay for the cost of the ecu after a while

I realise theres a cost associated with it, but its a solution is all
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Old 31-03-2011, 09:33 PM   #102
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Well the car is now driveable and I'm going to pick it up in the morning.
Yay I will have a car again.
It's not as powerful as I was hoping for but at least I know that the engine has another 40 kw left for me to unlock.

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Old 31-03-2011, 10:30 PM   #103
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Hopefully someone here knows a bit more about ECU's and VICS than I do so we can get it going to its full intent.

Does anyone have a copy of the Mazda wiring diagram or access to it?

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Old 01-04-2011, 12:27 AM   #104
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The Pro/5 one wont help you to an extent?

http://www.floptical.net/mazda/wire/
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:10 AM   #105
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Not really. the plugs on our harness are way different.
There is no mention in their of the immobilizer either.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:38 AM   #106
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was only a suggestion...
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:19 PM   #107
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Well I picked the car up this morning, its nicer to drive, but you can feel its needs the VICS working to unleash the full power.
Its got way more torque down low than the old engine.
I will upload the dyno graph later when I get a chance.
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:48 PM   #108
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Here is a copy of the dyno charts for the engine ATM



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Old 02-04-2011, 05:30 PM   #109
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got any charts that have rpm instead of kph?
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:38 PM   #110
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No sorry, but redline is 6500 RPM and cutout is 6700 RPM.
From the looks of the speed they started the run at about 2000 RPM in 4th gear.
I just noticed that one of the runs is the 45th time my car has been run on the dyno.
Here is a pic of the engine in the car

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Old 02-04-2011, 11:26 PM   #111
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Good to hear the car's up and running again, although you've got some balls leaving the intake in the same place...
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:07 AM   #112
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Intake is now mounted at knee height not ankle height now.
I now will avoid water if its more than 15 cm deep.
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:50 PM   #113
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45th time on a dyno not bad . took 5 days to one mazda engine to fire I know of.

when it's simple power runs normally only takes 1 or 2 rusn before your set.

but on tune or setup. If the cars not right can take a fair time. Plus depends on what the runs are calcualting. IF they reset the counter as well. On one Dyno day way back at croydon autosport - they hadto reset the whole unit because after a massive Run with a Big GT-R - they ran this Beatle on it and could not get it to read low enough.
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:17 PM   #114
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So the mazdaspeed engine is better than the normal astina sp20 engine? Cause i bought my engine off Gem engines, they stuffed it up and sent the wrong one, they needed to re condition one for me, took them two days buy they said they picked up a mazdaspeed 2.0 that fits my car from one of their local wreckers and re conditioned that for me, Arrived at my mechanic on friday. So im looking at another 5 kilowasps? lol
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:18 AM   #115
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I highly doubt that you would find a genuine Mazdaspeed engine in Australia as there were not a lot(100+109) of them made and they were never sold here.
Find out if it is a true Mazdaspeed because you will also need the ECU as well.
If its not I personally think it would be better to import just the FS-ZE engine from a stock Familia sport 20 from NZ(they had one with 35,000KM on it) and run it off the FS-DE ecu as it will be a nice power gain (98KW vs 125 KW) for just a bit more than an engine here..
The cost of a stock ECU + engine was $1200 kiwi which is less than the AU$1000 import duty.
So after shipping and all extras you should be able to get just an engne from NZ for way under $1500 and I think $1500 is cheap for a better replacement engine thats 25% more powerful.
BUT it will take about 3 weeks to get here.
PM me if you want contact details or would like me to arrange it for you as I now have it all sorted and know who to see and what to do.

The reason my car is putting out about 30KW less than it should is because im running the FP-DE ECU and not the Jap spec FS-ZE ECU and VICS isn't opening at 5000 RPM.
But at the moment my car has 18 KW more than last dyno day and its running like a bag of ****.
But if and when I do get it sorted my car will be a wolf in sheeps clothing.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:20 AM   #116
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Wow, that's actually a lot cheaper than I expected. Considering it's a decent power gain, and a fresher engine, seems like a pretty cost/benefit efficient mod
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:50 PM   #117
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Gave my car a bit of stick on the way home tonight and found out that its WAY quicker than it ever was.
Pity I haven't got the VICS running because I can feel it loosing power over 5000 RPM.
But if you change at 5K its got way more power than it had way eariler in the rev range.
Third gear quite often feels like im in 2nd.
From comparing it to other SP20 dyno charts it seems that with my retarded 1.8 ECU and no VICS im getting similar power at 5000RPM to a SP20 at 6500 RPM.
I cant wait till its all working correctly.
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Old 07-04-2011, 11:28 PM   #118
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Nice work!

Still no sign of throwing the ZE ecu back in to see if it will talk with the motor?
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:13 AM   #119
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We have tried, it turns over but no spark.
I am hoping that i might be able to track down a copy of the FS-ZE wiring diagram and be able to make it talk with the immobilzer.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:45 PM   #120
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if the imobilizer is like others and key based - you should be able to trace it back via the ignition barrell it's normally part of the CPU
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