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Old 25-06-2004, 11:02 AM   #61
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if you just want a basic setup - just get a kit from america like the flyin protege/begi kit. it is developed with help from corky bell. i'm sure there are a few people on here that know that name
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Old 25-06-2004, 12:01 PM   #62
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I do want to be able to develop and build it myself.. I LIKE THE HANDS ON idea, atleast this way I get to learn things, I am just worried I might forget something... but I am 100% certain that you guys can guide me through this. :mrgreen:

but, :shock: there still are many things I don't know, reading the post through the links you posted yesterday is helping... lots 8)

see how I go, I just dont want to blow an engine, :?
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Old 25-06-2004, 03:22 PM   #63
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You will only blow an engine from lack of planning. Plan your build and then build to
your plan. If you are only setting up the motor for 5psi then only run 5psi. If you
up the boost without new pistons or head gasket you cant blame anybody else when
things go boom. Happy to help you nut out the things to do up front, be realistic
and we can cover all the requirements.

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Old 25-06-2004, 08:12 PM   #64
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Thanks Mal,

That's what I need, I need guidance, as much as I can get... on my own I can't do this, I already found somethings I would have done wrong.. my budget is currently hovering around 7K mark? (remove cost of turbo, as I have one) I am sure there will be more things that I need.. my parts list is as follows..

Manifold
Turbo
Down Pipe
Computer
FPR (+new pump? or its all in there?)
Intercooler
Custom Piping

Extra pipes?

Sensors :?: (3BAR MAP Sensor :shock: )
Little bits that would clamp stuff and hold stuff (no idea how to price this)
Dyno Tuning :?: (No idea on cost, anyone?)

Wiredone mentioned need to move other cables around?
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Old 25-06-2004, 08:14 PM   #65
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Oh also, exhaust, but I wll be budgeting that later? Or should I get the exhaust done now? same time? more capital need :?
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Old 25-06-2004, 09:13 PM   #66
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Manifold - $800
Turbo - Already Have
Computer - $2500
FPR (+new pump? or its all in there?) $200 for FPR $350 for pump
Intercooler - $500ish
Custom Piping - Upto $1500 inc dump back exhaust
Sensors (3BAR MAP Sensor ) - Only need a 2 you will never see over 14psi. SHould be part of ECU pkg anyway
Little bits that would clamp stuff and hold stuff (no idea how to price this)
BOV upto 300.
Air Filter 150
Turbo Timer (if u want one) upto 200
Boost Gauge $upto 200
Silicon Turns and Sections - $200-300

Dyno Tuning (No idea on cost, anyone?)
Depends on tuner, but allow $80/hr and around 6-8hrs of tuning.

Your best option would be to goto StreetDreams and get an E6X. Tuning will be minimal as Wiredone has already done the hard yards.

Do the exhaust with the conversion as it will have an impact on tuning.
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Old 26-06-2004, 02:40 AM   #67
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BOV? hmm.. back into inlet? into exhaust pipe? into the air?

what about reports that this will/can cause my car to stall? or something along those lines, release all this air and not let it reach the engine, but the mathcing fuel amount is sent, therefore flooding the motor?

I am going to Street dreams for electric install, I saw the E6X for the mazda FS2.0 motor with accessories, $1600.
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Old 26-06-2004, 12:24 PM   #68
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All depends on how legal you want it to be.

Its illegal in NSW to vent unfiltered air to the atmosphere. Considering the crank case vents to the intake, the potential is there to release unfiltered fumes. To use an atmospheric BOV it must vent into an enclosed box in which your intake system draws air from so the fumes are sent back through the motor and filtered by the cat/pollution system. (case in point being my setup)

Atmos BOV make more noise and really its all about the noise

As you will be using an aftermarket ECU you are reading manifold pressure as opposed to air flow so the BOV has little effect as fuel delivery is directly propotional to manifold pressure.

You need to have a bov as when the throttle body closes, the air hits the TB and head back down the system and put pressure against the turbo compressor.

If you used a setup where an AFM is used then yes, you do have the problems outlined in your post. As you will be using MAP you wont have any problems.
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Old 26-06-2004, 04:26 PM   #69
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ok, 1 more concern... out of the way..
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Old 30-06-2004, 10:26 AM   #70
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Ball bearing Turbo as opposed to "Roller" bearing Turbo? any thoughts? worth the difference? I have an option to pay an extra 400 and trade in, get a 200SX Ball bearing turbo instead of the CT-26 turbo from the GT4
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Old 30-06-2004, 10:37 AM   #71
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ball bearing spools up quicker - it's the way to go.
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Old 30-06-2004, 11:44 AM   #72
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If you are getting a 200SX make sure its a S15 one the earlier ones weren't
as good. Ball bearings do spool up quicker but a well setup and SIZED roller
bearing will boost up real well. Jimbo's VF8 will have full boost by 3300
first gear needs to be feathered heaps to maintain traction, coming on earlier
would only make matters worse. So is it worth another $400 thats your decision.
As both are factory 2L turbo's you should be able to compare when they come
on boost and see if it is worth the $400 really.
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Old 30-06-2004, 12:33 PM   #73
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i agree with Mal, on a front wheel drive car u really dont need the boost to spool up very early as u just wont get traction. concentrate on something that flows more and can hold its boost well, rather than quick spool-up imho

from memory the difference between the BB & non-BB s15 turbos were that the BB's exhaust housing has a divider between the blades and the wastegate. I cant remember for certain tho
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Old 30-06-2004, 04:10 PM   #74
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a garrett t28 ball bearing turbo is the best application for our cars if ur not going to want big boost down the track , [then u would need bigger]
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Old 30-06-2004, 08:05 PM   #75
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i still think a ball bearing is better. think about driving along the highway at 2500rpm in 5th. no need to go back to 4th to get on boost if you have a ball bearing turbo.

anyway, why would you not get a ball bearing because you cant get traction in 1st when you can get traction in the rest of the gears?
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Old 01-07-2004, 09:22 AM   #76
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in the other gears the turbine is already spinning pretty quick ( cruising at 2500 in 5th, u'd possibly be a little below 0psi ), and having bb doesnt make much difference in comparison to non bb.
whats makes bbs good is that they spool up quickly from standstill.

drive a turbo fwd and u realise u cant plant your foot to the floor on take-off, u have to ease into it else ur wheels just spin. ( unless u have boost-limiting traction control built into ur boost controller ). I do this every day.

This obviously becomes even worse if u have more boost at that time. Even more of a pain in the ass.


btw doesnt jimbo havea vf8 ?
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Old 01-07-2004, 09:45 AM   #77
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yep VF8 Hybrid.
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Old 01-07-2004, 04:26 PM   #78
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the newer mx 5's are running the t28 b/bearing, mazda gave 2 to garretts in sydney to test an try to come up with something that would be better or try to improve things , but the boss off garrett said it was the best set up on any standard manufacturer there was nothing he could change to improve on it as a daily driver , an he told me that it would even be a much better application on a sp20 with an extra 200cc im getting a brand new 1 for 1600 thats the cheapest i have found ,with out getting that japaneese copy [bad news]
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Old 01-07-2004, 07:40 PM   #79
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I dont disagree that the T28 BB is a perfect fit to a 1.8-2L and I also dont disagree
that ball bearing is a better technology than roller bearing. What I am saying is
that your going to pay $1300 more to get boost from a standing start 300-500
revs before me. Thats probably 1/2 a car length. Once we are both on boost
we will level peg all through the rest of the gears. If I damage my turbo and
need a rebuild it will cost me $550. If you damage your turbo you will need a
whole new core around $1000. If moneys not an object and only the best will
do then the T28 even a second hand one for $800 is perfect. But otherwise is
$1300 for half a car length really worth it. Please also note the VF8 is very
close in size and performance to a T28 S15 turbo. I think you all need to put your
butt in some turbo cars & be driven around for a while feel the realities of lag
and or lack of it. I am not saying the VF8 is the perfect answer all I am saying
is that roller bearing is not that bad especially in a FWD where the front comes
up in the initial takeoff where traction is very hard to get.
Also wanted to say that a T28 on a N/A is an accident waiting to happen.
Increasing the size of the turbo increases the flow per psi obviously. This string
was supposed to be about a low boost setup on a n/a. A stock turbo off a GTX
would have been ok, raising to a Celica turbo was borderline but upping the
turbo again you are dreaming if you dont think the motor will blow up on you.
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Old 01-07-2004, 07:45 PM   #80
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I tend to agree with Mal. Considering you can pick up a VF8 or VF12 turbo in pretty good condition for around 500 its pretty hard to justify the additional $1300 or so for somthing which isnt really worth the extra dollars.

When I get the car out of the shop I will take you for a drive and you can make up your own mind about how quick the power delivery is. Dan may wish to comment here as he has done the big setup.
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