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Old 21-09-2006, 02:25 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy
Price difference between 1.8 and V6 now no way near worth putting a KL in an I4,

V6 you get bigger brakes, ABS, Air Bags, Wider Tyres, G Box, ??Strut brace??, Lower ride height all of which are prefferable in a FASTER car.

Not to mention CD, AC, Foggies, and other things.
hey sob sob,
If i could i would have got the V6 , but when everyone says not worth it!! half the things that would be needed like better brakes etc would be things i would love to upgrage to anywayover time!!


ow and by the way:
i got CD,AC, airbags etc in my 1.8, and ABS, fog lights where options when the car was new!
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Last edited by skitz; 21-09-2006 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 21-09-2006, 10:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy
Price difference between 1.8 and V6 now no way near worth putting a KL in an I4,

V6 you get bigger brakes, ABS, Air Bags, Wider Tyres, G Box, ??Strut brace??, Lower ride height all of which are prefferable in a FASTER car.

Not to mention CD, AC, Foggies, and other things.
Yeh true, i got the A/C in the 1.8 but no ABS or Airbags.

It's more likely to have a sunroof too but it is also less likely to come in manual because the stereotypical person who bought this car new would have most likely gone auto

If I go ahead and buy a V6 it may as well be exactly what i want! I would be buying the "astina-of-my-dreams" ... that is:
  • BA11F2 or F3 for colour coded door handles.
  • Thunderstorm grey in colour
  • Manual
  • Sunroof
  • Very close to stock
  • No body work. Ever.
  • Good interior.

Unfortunately this may be rather hard find, esp with a price of $9k or less (don't care about kms as long as interior, wiring and body are in good shape). I figure that if im gonna spend $6k on an engine conversion, the chassis i use had better be exactly what i want!

Anyways, i could talk forever about what I want, i think i'll leave this discussion here and update y'all when the decision is made.

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Old 22-09-2006, 03:44 AM   #43
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The v6 will autoamtically give you colour coded door handles
And Thunder Grey is the best
Hardtop v6 have the best suspension of all the BA series
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Old 22-09-2006, 09:17 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedbatman
The v6 will automatically give you colour coded door handles
Not true! BA11F1s had black handles. Dave's old V6 is an example. Might have just been early F1s tho.
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Old 22-09-2006, 04:11 PM   #45
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Haha
Not in the Hardtop then
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Old 24-10-2006, 12:27 PM   #46
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I have just fitted in a KLZE into my BA lantis.

Few issues :
1) Engine seems to run lean.
2) Idling was not good.
3) The car seems to run out of fuel when revving to high range RPM. There is just some sort of fuel cut and the engine was hesitating in the range from 5500 - 6500 rpm. I didn't rev it up further.

I felt the KF33 ecu only gave the amount of fuel for 2.0 litre but not for 2.5 litre.

My setup :
KLZE curved neck
KF33 ECU
B6BF MAF sensor (original from KFZE)

The engine mountings fit perfectly. It has no problems.
I used KF gearbox as mine is already with factory fitted LSD. Gearbox fitted with no problems. Drive Shafts fitted in perfectly.

Engine seems heavier but I felt my shocks can take it. I may need to set up firmer.

The VRIS point seems a bit different. Can a Microtech correct all these ?
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Old 24-10-2006, 09:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfze
The engine mountings fit perfectly. It has no problems.
I used KF gearbox as mine is already with factory fitted LSD. Gearbox fitted with no problems. Drive Shafts fitted in perfectly.

Engine seems heavier but I felt my shocks can take it. I may need to set up firmer.

The VRIS point seems a bit different. Can a Microtech correct all these ?
The engine has the same external dimensions which is why it fit so easily, this would make it much the same weight. More power through the corners will stress suspension components in different ways.
You could setup two shift light circuits (one for each VRIS valve) to control the VRIS activations.

Else, let the ECU learn the extra 500cc before condeming it.

Is the extra power worth the effort?
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Old 24-10-2006, 09:27 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfze
I have just fitted in a KLZE into my BA lantis.

Few issues :
1) Engine seems to run lean.
2) Idling was not good.
3) The car seems to run out of fuel when revving to high range RPM. There is just some sort of fuel cut and the engine was hesitating in the range from 5500 - 6500 rpm. I didn't rev it up further.

I felt the KF33 ecu only gave the amount of fuel for 2.0 litre but not for 2.5 litre.

My setup :
KLZE curved neck
KF33 ECU
B6BF MAF sensor (original from KFZE)

The engine mountings fit perfectly. It has no problems.
I used KF gearbox as mine is already with factory fitted LSD. Gearbox fitted with no problems. Drive Shafts fitted in perfectly.

Engine seems heavier but I felt my shocks can take it. I may need to set up firmer.

The VRIS point seems a bit different. Can a Microtech correct all these ?
I have the same setup but with few performance parts... no fuel cut here it revs fine and goes up to speeds about 140mph. There is something wrong ether with your engine/injectors or vac setup. I experienced big difference when I messed with fuel pressure regulator try connecting the regulator directly to intake manifold as is measures the pressure in it and disconnect the solenoid. Yes the vris points are different but if you have an TYPE R and KFZE engine they are almost identical trust me no problems there.


When engine is cold connect TEN-GND fan should be on always as it is in "diagnostic" mode, and adjust the big screw on top of the manifold for idle. Mine is a bit higher then old engine about 850 rpm.

1. Check vac for VRIS do they open? Do VRIS canisters operate as they should? ....paper test...!

2. Compression

3. Does it show any codes? I only got EGR code 16 as I removed it completely.


Hope this helps

Last edited by Mr.Obsessed; 24-10-2006 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 25-10-2006, 07:46 PM   #49
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Mr Obsessed,

Thanks for the tips.

Few things I need some clarification :

1) What is a "vac" ? Does it stand for Vacuum Actuator ?

2) Adjusting idling, do you mean adjusting the screw at the throttle body ? I normally adjust it without doing the TEN-GDN....

3) "Does it show any codes? I only got EGR code 16 as I removed it completely" - What is the EGR (sorry got lost with terms) ? How do you get the code 16 ? And what do you mean by removing the EGR ?

4) Was thinking of getting the fuel pressure regulator to smooth out the lean fuel. When you said connecting the fuel pressure regulator directly to the intake manifold, how do you do that ? I thought the fuel pressure regulator should be connecting to the injectors.

Mr Obsessed, I would really love to have some pix on the suggestion. especially when you said you disconnect the solenoid when you connect the fuel pressure regulator directly to the intake manifold. A pictures speaks a thousand words, and I would use that as my reference.

By the way, any comments with the new engine ? Are you getting the power that you expected ? Share share
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Old 25-10-2006, 08:41 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Obsessed
When engine is cold connect TEN-GND fan should be on always as it is in "diagnostic" mode, and adjust the big screw on top of the manifold for idle. Mine is a bit higher then old engine about 850 rpm.
Hello, could you please explain how we ground pin 10 on the diagnostic port please? I have read vague mention of this before, but with no particular instructions. I would like to raise my idle to 850-900rpm also.

Cheers,
Gav.
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Old 26-10-2006, 04:32 AM   #51
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Gavvy you need to pop a 'jumper' wire between the TEN and GND ports inside your diagnostic box
The EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculator, Code 16 means there is a fault with the EGR, (part of emissions system)
To fit an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator you need to remove the stock regulator from the fuel rail, then fit an adapter to the end Then the new regulator will fit to the adapter (here is a pic of an adapter)
Although I do recommend you setting up your fuel rails for a 'dual feed' system(as our engines have a tendancy to have starvation issues due to the v style syatem with 2 fuel rails), do a search for that its been covered here before
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Old 26-10-2006, 07:32 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedbatman
Gavvy you need to pop a 'jumper' wire between the TEN and GND ports inside your diagnostic box
Thx Petey, glad I asked because I thought you grounded pin 10 to the chassis! Anyhow, I will look for a diagnostic port schematic, unless the pin numbers (or alteast the 1st and last) are printed on the plug.


Gav.
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Old 26-10-2006, 11:50 PM   #53
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Thanks Pete. Hmm..I will try to look for fuel pressure regulator topic.

I think by putting more fuel pressure, I hope it would solve the engine lean problem.
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Old 27-10-2006, 10:00 AM   #54
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Quote:
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Haha
Not in the Hardtop then
Sorry boost,

But both my v6 hardtop had black door handles (no-colour coded) - by mermory the series 1 had no colour coded handles (and i think some series 2 as well) but both mine were a series 1 model (1994)
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Old 27-10-2006, 11:53 AM   #55
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yeah it's a weird one that. Mines S1 yet it's colour coded
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Old 27-10-2006, 12:14 PM   #56
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From what i remember, the very first ones came out with black handles, as that was the 'in' thing in europe at the time, but the aussie buyers didn't like it. So they went back to colorcoded.
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Old 28-10-2006, 03:38 AM   #57
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Alright I cave in now
I saw my first and hopefu;;y only black handled Hardtop last week and let me just say


I dont like it that way
Looks cheap and nasty
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:24 AM   #58
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hye guys i need help! i have a curved neck 2.0 6v in my mazda (standard) and i am replacing it with another 2.0 v6 but when it arrived it had the straight neck manifold and an extra tube coming off the rocker cover at the front and going to the back....my mechanic isnt sure if he can just replace the manifolds, or , if he jst leaves it, if the engine will fit and wire up properly??
Heres the engines information:

old:
On both, just behind the front rocker cover is kf1a1

On the manifold of the old one, (far left rear of engine,) is 33
On the new one it is P1

thaks for any help you can give!!
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:29 PM   #59
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sounds like a Eunos 500 KF compared with the BA Astina KF
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Old 05-04-2007, 07:44 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smalldave86 View Post
hye guys i need help! i have a curved neck 2.0 6v in my mazda (standard) and i am replacing it with another 2.0 v6 but when it arrived it had the straight neck manifold and an extra tube coming off the rocker cover at the front and going to the back....my mechanic isnt sure if he can just replace the manifolds, or , if he jst leaves it, if the engine will fit and wire up properly??
Heres the engines information:

old:
On both, just behind the front rocker cover is kf1a1

On the manifold of the old one, (far left rear of engine,) is 33
On the new one it is P1

thaks for any help you can give!!
you'r mechanic must pull the engine forwards as i describet it earlier in front mounting. Varta makes smaller batteries and get CAI for Ford Probe/MX6. And it should fit. If he says its not possible to get it in show him this picture to shut him up.


Last edited by Mr.Obsessed; 05-04-2007 at 07:46 PM.
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