NEED HELP: Dodgy job........

SAGE · 28-06-2011, 07:11 PM

Hey.

Got the astina lowered with a set of Espieler Springs, and a Mazda sway bar kit.. that came with a replacement rear crossmember. (both ordered from Protege Garage in the US)

Took it for a drive tonight, the difference in handling is dramatic.

Whats pissing me off though is a huge amount of rattles,knocks and all sorts of crap coming from the rear, none of this was there prior to the install.

It sounds like a bomb!..... i mean it's really bloody severe.

Has this happened to anyone else?. Surely i don't have to put up with this from a pro install?, or do i ?

Really bugged about this.

Duke · 28-06-2011, 07:13 PM

Check swaybar links. When i put my rear sussy back together i had alot of noise. It was cause my swaybar links werent tight enough.

Clean_Cookie · 28-06-2011, 07:32 PM

agree with duke. my bar was actually sliding side to side. i added rubber with those worm-drive clamps (like on radiator hoses etc) to limit the amount of sideways movement. you also have to add alot of grease (especially if its now smeared up and down your swaybar!)

good luck

pr1mo · 28-06-2011, 10:42 PM

also check that your rear springs are seated properley. I had all sorts of noises once when a mechanic didnt reseat my springs properley and I drove around pissed off for 2 weeks until I worked out what it was.

Noble323 · 28-06-2011, 11:25 PM

Yeah i agree above with the swaybar links,

Also with pr1mo i also had the same with the springs not sitting right, depending how low you lowered it, also check if the springs are sitting in place.

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marcs_sp20 · 28-06-2011, 11:52 PM

Can you give us any more details on this "Mazda sway bar kit??

Ice88 · 29-06-2011, 12:58 AM

Most likely the racingbeat kit that the mazdaspeeds had i dink.

project.r.racing · 29-06-2011, 07:28 AM

Not aware of any kits that come with a replacement rear cross member/suspension cradle.

SAGE · 29-06-2011, 12:39 PM

Swaybar kit is branded "racing beat" red. Kit is front and rear $390.

including the rear crossmember.

SAGE · 29-06-2011, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pr1mo

also check that your rear springs are seated properley. I had all sorts of noises once when a mechanic didnt reseat my springs properley and I drove around pissed off for 2 weeks until I worked out what it was.

THIS!, is what i think it is..... Did you return to have them done?

SAGE · 29-06-2011, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ice88

Most likely the racingbeat kit that the mazdaspeeds had i dink.

Thats the one.

Orion · 29-06-2011, 01:14 PM

Sounds like the "cross member" is simply the rear swaybar

They are slightly larger than the stock one and perhaps the bushes have not been seated properly, causing the bar to move or slide around.

Possible quick fix would be to use hose and worm drive clamps to prevent some of this movement - as stated above. Also, check you endlinks and see if they are loose at all.

I would be interested if you can give any information on how difficult / expensive it was to install the upgraded (red) front swaybar?

Cheers

SAGE · 29-06-2011, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orion

Sounds like the "cross member" is simply the rear swaybar

They are slightly larger than the stock one and perhaps the bushes have not been seated properly, causing the bar to move or slide around.

Possible quick fix would be to use hose and worm drive clamps to prevent some of this movement - as stated above. Also, check you endlinks and see if they are loose at all.

I would be interested if you can give any information on how difficult / expensive it was to install the upgraded (red) front swaybar?

Cheers

Hey Onion,

The kit comes with the rear crossmember, in addition to the front and rear red coloured swaybars, it's just not illustrated on the photo thats all. Same dimension as the stock, only designed to fit the new swaybars.

Rang today, turns out it is the springs,they won't sit untill i add new struts. Too much room for them to move around. Can get away with it sometimes.

At the moment if feels like a piece of ****, it's seriously in need of a wheel alignment, on top of straining the power steering due to it being wacked, (knocking "click" in the power steering?!) along with 3 knocking springs.

It's barely drivable in it's current state. The new struts are needed ASAP.

Install was reasonble $315
"Racing Beat" Mazda Stabiliser Kit was $390
Espieler Springs $295 (They sent these instead of H&R Springs which were ordered)
US Shipping + tax $180

SAGE · 29-06-2011, 04:48 PM

This is what sold me on this kit

CUSTOMER REVIEW

""the kit looks expensive but what you don't see is that it comes with a new rear crossmember (mazdaspeed, reinforced and slightly different swaybar mounting areas) 2 front links, and all of the hardware needed to install the bars, including the exhaust gaskets to replace those you have to expose when dropping the front crossmember when installing the front bar.

unfortunately the red powdercoat and racing beat stickers on the bars are damaged from all of this stuff bouncing around in the box in shipping. no biggy but not show car worthy if you care about that""

handling improvement is immense - pretty much any bar would do about the same I'm betting. run only the rear for a tad less understeer. wortht the extra money over the other kits IMHO.

Noble323 · 29-06-2011, 05:03 PM

New strut/shocks ..... I dunno why they say that cause mine where every loose when car was up on a hoist but when I sat the springs properly and then put the car down on the ground it sat in place and didn't come loose only few times when I go over a bump to quick, but I just lift the car with a jack and sit it in place and then put it down again on the ground.

I would maybe say even if you get new strut's it will do the same unless you customize the strut by shorting it so spring are captive .

Rupewrecht · 29-06-2011, 05:08 PM

Sounds like the springs are too short and too hard, and aren't 'captive' when the car is jacked.

New shocks aren't going to help this - unless they're a particular model that have a shorter stroke (= less travel).

You might want to check that they put the correct springs in the correct place each side, and that they put the rubber seats back under the springs.

Orion · 29-06-2011, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAGE

Hey Orion,

Firstly, fixed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAGE

The kit comes with the rear crossmember, in addition to the front and rear red coloured swaybars, it's just not illustrated on the photo thats all. Same dimension as the stock, only designed to fit the new swaybars.

Any chance you have a picture of the cross member before it went in the car? I have never seen or heard of this so I'm keen to learn more. My Progress reay swaybar went on perfectly first time and I have never had a issue with it, so it doesn't sound like something I need.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAGE

Install was reasonble $315
"Racing Beat" Mazda Stabiliser Kit was $390
Espieler Springs $295 (They sent these instead of H&R Springs which were ordered)
US Shipping + tax $180

Not bad prices on the install and the shipping.

Enjoy the Espiliers!

They performed great when I had a set on my car. Only reason I switched to Eibachs was to get the rear down and have a bit less harshness for everyday driving

marcs_sp20 · 29-06-2011, 05:24 PM

Its common for some of the Pro5 (Astina) boys in the US to change over to the MSP subframe, so that they can upgrade to the bigger swaybar

My bet is the springs just need to be re-seated, I had the same problem when I first installed my bigger rear sway bar, the left rear spring fell out of the rubber seat, all you have to do is jack up the car, pull the tyre off and give it a pull or yank in the direction needed, or if your wantin to keep your fingers, use some spring tensioners and do it that way

project.r.racing · 29-06-2011, 09:30 PM

http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protege.html

pics here of the kit fitted. alot of work to this protege done!

Note the clamps on the swaybar to stop movement.

28-06-2011, 07:11 PM	#1
SAGE Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Sun Coast Car: 03 BJ II 323 Posts: 126	NEED HELP: Dodgy job........ Hey. Got the astina lowered with a set of Espieler Springs, and a Mazda sway bar kit.. that came with a replacement rear crossmember. (both ordered from Protege Garage in the US) Took it for a drive tonight, the difference in handling is dramatic. Whats pissing me off though is a huge amount of rattles,knocks and all sorts of crap coming from the rear, none of this was there prior to the install. It sounds like a bomb!..... i mean it's really bloody severe. Has this happened to anyone else?. Surely i don't have to put up with this from a pro install?, or do i ? Really bugged about this. Last edited by SAGE; 28-06-2011 at 07:14 PM.

28-06-2011, 07:32 PM	#3
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	agree with duke. my bar was actually sliding side to side. i added rubber with those worm-drive clamps (like on radiator hoses etc) to limit the amount of sideways movement. you also have to add alot of grease (especially if its now smeared up and down your swaybar!) good luck __________________ Worklog

28-06-2011, 11:52 PM	#6
marcs_sp20 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Ipswich, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon Posts: 9,769 View Photos By: marcs_sp20	Can you give us any more details on this "Mazda sway bar kit?? __________________

29-06-2011, 12:58 AM	#7
Ice88 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane Car: Blue SP20 Posts: 2,782	Most likely the racingbeat kit that the mazdaspeeds had i dink. __________________

29-06-2011, 12:39 PM	#9
SAGE Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Sun Coast Car: 03 BJ II 323 Posts: 126	Swaybar kit is branded "racing beat" red. Kit is front and rear $390. including the rear crossmember. Last edited by SAGE; 29-06-2011 at 12:43 PM.

28-06-2011, 07:13 PM	#2
Duke Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: hornsby Car: Toyota cressida mx73 Posts: 199	Check swaybar links. When i put my rear sussy back together i had alot of noise. It was cause my swaybar links werent tight enough.

28-06-2011, 10:42 PM	#4
pr1mo I MUST STOP MAKING STUPID POSTS! Yet I keep on making them. And I wonder why I get banned? Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: DansVille Car: auto Posts: 4,326	also check that your rear springs are seated properley. I had all sorts of noises once when a mechanic didnt reseat my springs properley and I drove around pissed off for 2 weeks until I worked out what it was.

28-06-2011, 11:25 PM	#5
Noble323 E74A Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Sydney Car: SP20 Posts: 1,248	Yeah i agree above with the swaybar links, Also with pr1mo i also had the same with the springs not sitting right, depending how low you lowered it, also check if the springs are sitting in place. . . . .

29-06-2011, 07:28 AM	#8
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	Not aware of any kits that come with a replacement rear cross member/suspension cradle.

29-06-2011, 01:14 PM	#12
Orion SP20 Member! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Brisbane Car: Mazda SP20 sedan Posts: 1,769 View Photos By: Orion	Sounds like the "cross member" is simply the rear swaybar They are slightly larger than the stock one and perhaps the bushes have not been seated properly, causing the bar to move or slide around. Possible quick fix would be to use hose and worm drive clamps to prevent some of this movement - as stated above. Also, check you endlinks and see if they are loose at all. I would be interested if you can give any information on how difficult / expensive it was to install the upgraded (red) front swaybar? Cheers __________________ Exhaust: Autoexe headers; Custom midpipe; Racing Beat catback Engine: AWR mounts; Twiggy cams; Custom CAI; RR Racing UDP; Mishimoto rad EMS: Microtech LT-10; J&S Safeguard; Gearbox: MSP LSD; Fidanza flywheel; 5th gear Rims/Suspension: MX-5 rims; Tokico Illuminas; Eibach Pro-kit; Progress RSB; AutoExe STB Exterior: MSP front lip & rear spoiler; Matt V headlights; AutoExe grill; EDM tails Interior: JVC AVX-77; Autometer gauges; DaveBs; B&M shifter Projects to come: Engine rebuild

29-06-2011, 04:48 PM	#14
SAGE Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Sun Coast Car: 03 BJ II 323 Posts: 126	This is what sold me on this kit CUSTOMER REVIEW ""the kit looks expensive but what you don't see is that it comes with a new rear crossmember (mazdaspeed, reinforced and slightly different swaybar mounting areas) 2 front links, and all of the hardware needed to install the bars, including the exhaust gaskets to replace those you have to expose when dropping the front crossmember when installing the front bar. unfortunately the red powdercoat and racing beat stickers on the bars are damaged from all of this stuff bouncing around in the box in shipping. no biggy but not show car worthy if you care about that"" handling improvement is immense - pretty much any bar would do about the same I'm betting. run only the rear for a tad less understeer. wortht the extra money over the other kits IMHO. Last edited by SAGE; 29-06-2011 at 04:52 PM.

29-06-2011, 05:03 PM	#15
Noble323 E74A Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Sydney Car: SP20 Posts: 1,248	New strut/shocks ..... I dunno why they say that cause mine where every loose when car was up on a hoist but when I sat the springs properly and then put the car down on the ground it sat in place and didn't come loose only few times when I go over a bump to quick, but I just lift the car with a jack and sit it in place and then put it down again on the ground. I would maybe say even if you get new strut's it will do the same unless you customize the strut by shorting it so spring are captive .

29-06-2011, 05:08 PM	#16
Rupewrecht Administrator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: melb.vic.au Car: AZ-1, Astina Hardtop Turbo, BJ Protege, Beetle Posts: 16,525 View Photos By: Rupewrecht	Sounds like the springs are too short and too hard, and aren't 'captive' when the car is jacked. New shocks aren't going to help this - unless they're a particular model that have a shorter stroke (= less travel). You might want to check that they put the correct springs in the correct place each side, and that they put the rubber seats back under the springs. __________________ jdmparts.rupewrecht.com Sourcing your not-quite-overnight parts from Japan WRECHT--\|--SLOWTEGE--\|--BEETLE--\|--SUBSTITUTE--\|--AZ-1

29-06-2011, 05:24 PM	#18
marcs_sp20 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Ipswich, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Astina SP20 2006 Mazda 6 GY Wagon Posts: 9,769 View Photos By: marcs_sp20	Its common for some of the Pro5 (Astina) boys in the US to change over to the MSP subframe, so that they can upgrade to the bigger swaybar My bet is the springs just need to be re-seated, I had the same problem when I first installed my bigger rear sway bar, the left rear spring fell out of the rubber seat, all you have to do is jack up the car, pull the tyre off and give it a pull or yank in the direction needed, or if your wantin to keep your fingers, use some spring tensioners and do it that way __________________

29-06-2011, 09:30 PM	#19
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protege.html pics here of the kit fitted. alot of work to this protege done! Note the clamps on the swaybar to stop movement. Last edited by project.r.racing; 29-06-2011 at 09:34 PM.